Rain
Everything and everybody stop when it rains. Students and teachers don't go to school. Employees don't go to work. This even happens in Kampala. It was explained to me by a university-educated bank employee that the reason they wait until the rain is off to go to work is that people will get their shoes and nice clothes wet and muddy due to all the puddles in the bad roads. No one seems to consider the fact that there are alternatives. People who can afford it can wear rainboots, long raincoat, or simply wear old shoes and casual clothes, changing into work clothes upon arrival at one's place of employment. People in the trading centres and villages are not worried about getting business clothes muddy, but seem to simply prefer not to get wet, even if this means losing money at their business.
I am sure this contributes to Uganda's slow journey to progress, along with little understanding of the importance of good timekeeping and punctuality.
School practice and trucks
PTC students partipate in several student teaching practices at local primary schools. The tutors at the core primary teachers' colleges observe, grade and advise them.
Transportation to these schools, most of which are a long distance down bumpy dirt roads, is by 4 door pickup truck. All the tutors can't fit in the seats so they sit in the back of the truck on the edge, holding on where possible. Many stand up as it's less jolting when going over the bumps. The back of a truck is a common mode of transport here, and, of course, in an accident many are killed. We've been met with disbelief when we point out that in our countries the driver would be arrested for this.
Cold bath/shower
Recently we were discussing cold showers and baths with a couple of our neighbours, and mentioned that we heat water for hot bath or camping shower. They found this incomprehensible, saying they prefer a cold bath/shower, even when the weather is chilly. One person thought taking a hot bath or shower would make you sweat!
Thursday 28 May 2009
Monday 18 May 2009
Jacana Lodge - QENP
Over the weekend Danny and I stayed at a lodge we hadn’t visited before – Jacana Lodge.
http://www.geolodgesafrica.com/jacana_safari_lodge.htm
I inquired by email if there was a discount rate for residents and was pleased to learn there was. (so volunteers should always ask!)
Jacana is located inside Queen Elizabeth National Park and is on a crater lake in the Rift Valley. The lodge is in the forest and is located about 11km from the main road on a dirt track which is in good condition. The design and décor of this lodge is incredibly well done and full of character. There is a swimming pool next to the lake, many comfortable seating areas for lounging or taking meals, and a large fireplace in one of the seating areas, all of which overlook the lake.
The lodge has 10 self-contained wooden chalets and one family cottage. The rooms are fabulous – spacious, comfortable, tastefully designed, and the many windows are screened and has a seating area overlooking the lake. Hot water is available at all times as the water is heated by wood fire. There is a generator for electricity and is switched on between 6.30 am (5.30 am if a guest is leaving early on a game drive/walk) until about 8am, and in the evening from 6.30 to 10.30. Conveniences in the room include a torch/flashlight, candles, bottled water, a large umbrella, and a can of Doom. I am sure the Doom is mainly for bees which can get into the room as I did not notice any mosquitoes at all even though it was rainy during our visit.
Service was impeccable and the staff were very friendly and obviously well-trained. Meals were delicious, creative and visually appealing! Breakfast was a buffet with fresh fruit, pastries, juice, cereals. Eggs and sausage were made to order. Pastries were not typically Ugandan (in other words they were good!) and the bread was homemade. Lunch was a full 3-course meal. Our first lunch began with a starter of avocado, mango, diced carrots and pineapple, onions, lettuce, nuts with a sauce (scrumptious). The main course (we had a choice of 3) was a generous portion of tender medallions of fillet beef, potatoes and vegetable. Dessert was a bowl of fresh fruit. Dinner that evening was equally impressive as were lunch and dinner the following day.
We took a one-hour pontoon trip in the lake which was very relaxing. We spotted a few red tailed monkeys, various birds, the Rwenzori Mountains. The lodge provides tandem ocean kayaks but we did not avail ourselves of one. The lake has hippos in certain areas, no crocodiles and only very small fish. We could hear chimps calling from the forest across the lake. You can also have a meal aboard the pontoon on a cruise in the lake.
Throughout the day, and especially at night, we enjoyed hearing a symphony of animal sounds – various birds, monkeys, chimps, baboons, insects, etc. Before we leave Uganda we will return for a visit.
Jacana is located inside Queen Elizabeth National Park and is on a crater lake in the Rift Valley. The lodge is in the forest and is located about 11km from the main road on a dirt track which is in good condition. The design and décor of this lodge is incredibly well done and full of character. There is a swimming pool next to the lake, many comfortable seating areas for lounging or taking meals, and a large fireplace in one of the seating areas, all of which overlook the lake.
The lodge has 10 self-contained wooden chalets and one family cottage. The rooms are fabulous – spacious, comfortable, tastefully designed, and the many windows are screened and has a seating area overlooking the lake. Hot water is available at all times as the water is heated by wood fire. There is a generator for electricity and is switched on between 6.30 am (5.30 am if a guest is leaving early on a game drive/walk) until about 8am, and in the evening from 6.30 to 10.30. Conveniences in the room include a torch/flashlight, candles, bottled water, a large umbrella, and a can of Doom. I am sure the Doom is mainly for bees which can get into the room as I did not notice any mosquitoes at all even though it was rainy during our visit.
Service was impeccable and the staff were very friendly and obviously well-trained. Meals were delicious, creative and visually appealing! Breakfast was a buffet with fresh fruit, pastries, juice, cereals. Eggs and sausage were made to order. Pastries were not typically Ugandan (in other words they were good!) and the bread was homemade. Lunch was a full 3-course meal. Our first lunch began with a starter of avocado, mango, diced carrots and pineapple, onions, lettuce, nuts with a sauce (scrumptious). The main course (we had a choice of 3) was a generous portion of tender medallions of fillet beef, potatoes and vegetable. Dessert was a bowl of fresh fruit. Dinner that evening was equally impressive as were lunch and dinner the following day.
Throughout the day, and especially at night, we enjoyed hearing a symphony of animal sounds – various birds, monkeys, chimps, baboons, insects, etc. Before we leave Uganda we will return for a visit.
Monday 11 May 2009
Lake Bunyonyi - May
The college is still on term break, so Danny and I took another wee trip and spent 5 days and 4 nights at Lake Bunyonyi, very close to the Rwandan border. Due to the high elevation (about 2500 metres) the weather is normally quite cool in the morning and after sunset, but since this is the tail-end of the rainy season it’s been very cool or cold most of the time. A plus side to this is there are very few mosquitoes and a mozzie net is not required on the beds.
We were at Lake Bunyonyi during the xmas holiday in 2007 but did not hike to the top of the mountain, so we did so this time. Since it had rained the day before we took the road to the top instead of the muddy shortcut through forests. On our journey we walked past many locals on or near the road and greeted them in their language, Rukiga, which is similar to the language in our area - Runyankole. As always, the response was giggles or smiles of delight.
As we walked through one small village the children literally swarmed us. One large group of 3-7 year olds (from an orphanage?) greeted us with songs. Many wanted their photos taken which I would have loved to do but declined due to past experiences of being followed and pestered non-stop. Since we were on our way to the tourist hotel located at the top of the mountain these children were used to seeing mzungus and many asked us to give them money or pencils/pens. Actually, they don’t learn this phrase as a question, but as a demand, ‘give me money’. Children aged 3 or 4 or older usually know some English phrases or words including ‘how are you’ and ‘I’m fine’. We replied to their requests for money with ‘ngaha, nikibi’ which means ‘no, bad’ and told them not to beg. Unfortunately, tourists or short-term charity/NGO workers give away pencils, other gifts and money, thus training the children to be beggars and to expect (rich) white people to give you things.
We passed a group working in a field and exchanged greetings in their language. On the way back we passed the same group and one of the men said in Rukiga, ‘kurakayo’ meaning ‘welcome back’, to which we replied ‘narugayo’ meaning ‘thanks, it’s nice to be back’. The group was thrilled that we knew these words and one man said ‘excellent’ and gave us a ‘thumbs up’.
When we reached the top we sat at Arcadia Cottages for tea and lunch and enjoyed the spectacular view. While there we inquired into staying in one of the cottages for one night and decided to extend our visit by one night.
We stayed at the same hotel as before for the first 3 nights:
http://www.traveluganda.co.ug/crater-bay-cottages/
65,000 shs (about $32 USD) for a double and does not include any meals. The cottages are near the lake and dugout canoes are free for guests to use. The cottages have electricity and hot showers. Since it was cold and kept threatening rain we decided against going out this time.
Meals were much better and the service much quicker than our previous visit. The vegetable curry with rice, the beans/matooke/vegetables, and the cole slaw were fabulous. Danny is not a fan of salads but ate the huge portion of cole slaw – a high compliment.
We spent our final night at Arcadia Cottages. The interior of the cottages is much brighter and more spacious and modern than Crater Bay. A double was 120,000 shs (about $60 USD) and included breakfast. It also had satellite TV but as is common in many Ugandan hotels this is restricted to whatever channel has been selected in the bar.
http://www.traveluganda.co.ug/arcadiacottages/
We were very impressed with the service, food, accommodation, gardens, and spectacular view and will return in August during term break and dry season.
We were at Lake Bunyonyi during the xmas holiday in 2007 but did not hike to the top of the mountain, so we did so this time. Since it had rained the day before we took the road to the top instead of the muddy shortcut through forests. On our journey we walked past many locals on or near the road and greeted them in their language, Rukiga, which is similar to the language in our area - Runyankole. As always, the response was giggles or smiles of delight.
As we walked through one small village the children literally swarmed us. One large group of 3-7 year olds (from an orphanage?) greeted us with songs. Many wanted their photos taken which I would have loved to do but declined due to past experiences of being followed and pestered non-stop. Since we were on our way to the tourist hotel located at the top of the mountain these children were used to seeing mzungus and many asked us to give them money or pencils/pens. Actually, they don’t learn this phrase as a question, but as a demand, ‘give me money’. Children aged 3 or 4 or older usually know some English phrases or words including ‘how are you’ and ‘I’m fine’. We replied to their requests for money with ‘ngaha, nikibi’ which means ‘no, bad’ and told them not to beg. Unfortunately, tourists or short-term charity/NGO workers give away pencils, other gifts and money, thus training the children to be beggars and to expect (rich) white people to give you things.
We passed a group working in a field and exchanged greetings in their language. On the way back we passed the same group and one of the men said in Rukiga, ‘kurakayo’ meaning ‘welcome back’, to which we replied ‘narugayo’ meaning ‘thanks, it’s nice to be back’. The group was thrilled that we knew these words and one man said ‘excellent’ and gave us a ‘thumbs up’.
When we reached the top we sat at Arcadia Cottages for tea and lunch and enjoyed the spectacular view. While there we inquired into staying in one of the cottages for one night and decided to extend our visit by one night.
We stayed at the same hotel as before for the first 3 nights:
http://www.traveluganda.co.ug/crater-bay-cottages/
65,000 shs (about $32 USD) for a double and does not include any meals. The cottages are near the lake and dugout canoes are free for guests to use. The cottages have electricity and hot showers. Since it was cold and kept threatening rain we decided against going out this time.
Meals were much better and the service much quicker than our previous visit. The vegetable curry with rice, the beans/matooke/vegetables, and the cole slaw were fabulous. Danny is not a fan of salads but ate the huge portion of cole slaw – a high compliment.
We spent our final night at Arcadia Cottages. The interior of the cottages is much brighter and more spacious and modern than Crater Bay. A double was 120,000 shs (about $60 USD) and included breakfast. It also had satellite TV but as is common in many Ugandan hotels this is restricted to whatever channel has been selected in the bar.
http://www.traveluganda.co.ug/arcadiacottages/
We were very impressed with the service, food, accommodation, gardens, and spectacular view and will return in August during term break and dry season.
Tuesday 5 May 2009
Updates: Doreen, misc photos
Update on Doreen
We have sufficient sponsorship from some generous people and are now anxiously awaiting the results of her application to Uganda Christian University in the Law programme. If accepted she will begin UCU in September.
Pics uploaded to my Flickr albums
Bushenyi District (May Day visit):
Mweya Lodge (our anniversary weekend in April):
Kath and Riaan Tour (finally added pics taken by Kathleen or Riaan on their visit in Feb.):
Sunday 3 May 2009
Indulging on May Day weekend
family on Friday and the other on Saturday. (The goat in the previous post was one of the courses on Friday. And he was delicious!) The home is deep in the mountains in the Bushenyi District - a 30km drive down a rocky and sometimes very steep road. The scenery is simply spectacular with lush greenery and tea plantations and mountains.
Very few white people travel down this road as there are no colleges or NGO's and the road
does not lead to any tourist destinations. It would be safe to say that most, if not all, of the younger children had never seen a white person (mzungu) before. One child age 2 or 3 saw us driving down the road and she ran screaming and crying to her mother, tripping along the way. We were the object of much more attention than we normally get, which is quite a lot anyway.
The food was plentiful, extraordinarily plentiful, and very delicious. It's customary in Uganda for the guests, senior male members of the family and the elderly to eat first while the females and children eat later.
Our meal the next day was a much quieter affair and we ate with just the husband and wife. Food was again plentiful and very delicious. (ebyokurya nibirungi - the food was good).
I'm beginning to feel very sad about leaving certain people here...actually, Ugandans in general, but certain people in particular.. We plan to return and see everyone on a holiday but that will likely be a long time in the future. Several people have asked us to extend our placement, but longer than 2 years is just too long to be away from our home.
It's a shame that people who visit Uganda cannot partake of a meal with a local family. Some
of my family will be visiting in a couple of months and we've racked our brains trying to figure
out how to arrange this. Unfortunately, our itinerary doesn't allow time for it.
Photos I took in Bushenyi will be uploaded to my photo album in a couple of days. The album will be called Bushenyi.
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