Danny & Annie @ VSO

Blog changes

2010-11-23T01:52:00.000+03:00

I am going to have this blog printed as a book and have had to replace the Uganda-dead-slow-internet-uploadable-sized photos with the originals so they would be print quality. Some of the originals are missing, so there are some changes in the blog in case anyone is wondering.

Last post

2009-10-24T16:38:00.002+03:00

This is my last post on this blog. Our student that we co-sponsor, Doreen, is doing well in her classes. News of her progress will be on my Scotland blog. All further posts will be here:

http://solasachanalba.blogspot.com/

HOME!

2009-10-06T11:46:00.005+03:00

After tearful goodbyes in Kampala and at the airport, we took the long journey home to Scotland.

We've been touring the Inverness area with Danny's daughter and her husband, and getting used to the drastic drop in temperature.

Here's a few pics I took yesterday and I'll continue blogging here:

Photos: Urquhart Castle, village of Drumnadrochit, Caledonian Canal in Fort Augustus

http://solasachanalba.blogspot.com/

Bye Uganda....turebane bwanyima (see ya later)

2009-10-01T22:00:00.001+03:00

In about 18 hours we will say goodbye to Uganda and board our flight home to Scotland via Dubai. Last Friday we left the campus and said farewell to everyone. We have spent our last six nights in Uganda at the hotel where we spent our very first night in Uganda - the International Landmark in Muyenga, Kampala. We've stayed at this hotel so many times over the two years that the staff know us well and we are greeted with hugs when we arrive.
http://www.int-landmarkhotel.co.ug/

In preparing to leave here I am reminded of an incident at the Dubai Airport in May 2008 when returning from a visit with my family in the US. We were walking to our gate for the Entebbe flight and I heard the announcement for the flight to Glasgow (our home airport). I was overwhelmed by homesickness and nearly burst into tears. I wanted to board that flight, not the one to Entebbe. However, I did recover from the ensuing bout of homesickness and once we hit the one year mark in October I knew I'd be fine.

It's difficult to summarize two years of living in this small country in East Africa as we've had experiences we'd never imagined in the UK or the US. I will certainly never forget this country or the lovely people we've met. Has it made me realize how fortunate and spoiled I am? You bet! Will I remember not to take all the conveniences of the western world for granted? I hope so. Has it made me realize what is/should be important - more than 'stuff'? Yes! There will be reminders of our time in Uganda all over our house after we get home - crafts, carvings, masks, wall hangings, photos, etc. I imagine it will feel strange for a while to be surrounded by a very white Scottish population. It will feel strange not to be treated as a celebrity. And it will be bloody cold and wet!!

Looking back....as prepared as I thought I was, I suffered from serious culture shock when we first arrived and it took me quite a while to adjust and become comfortable. Danny had no problem adjusting at all except for figuring out the money. I thought I would never understand the accents!

Before we left Scotland for Uganda I scoured the internet for information on living in Uganda and especially for blogs by previous/current volunteers. I quickly realized after arriving here that the people who advised me that I wouldn't truly know what it was like until I was actually living here were spot on!

One of my favourite things about living in Uganda is that everywhere we go small children wave, jump and down with excitement and yell ‘mzungu, how are you?’ when they see us drive or walk past. Being a ‘celebrity’ and centre of attention most everywhere we go was intimidating at first, but I soon learned to enjoy it. It’s quite strange to be seen as someone special, a celebrity, just by virtue of something you have absolutely no choice in – being white. In some areas frequented by tourists we encounter kids with their hands out shouting ‘give me money’, which we refuse to do as it turns them into beggars. It’s unfortunate that many tourists don’t realize what they are doing when they give the children gifts or money. If the children do something to earn money, such as performing for us, that’s an entirely different matter.

Making a difference….a well worn out phrase….
We didn’t come here to save the country, but have we ‘made a difference’? Danny has made quite a lot of differences in many peoples’ lives and I’ve made a few as well. We’ve made some very good friends and we will miss them greatly.

By being retired and having an income aside from the meagre living allowance provided, we’ve made this 2 years much more enjoyable. By having a car we’ve had the freedom to explore the country, enjoying several of the nice lodges and national parks on many occasions. Mobile internet also helped tremendously to keep us connected to family and friends. We’ve been able to be very generous with a select number of Ugandans, but wished we could help even more of them.

Would I do this again?
I don’t regret coming to Uganda at all, not for a second. Knowing what I know now I would do this again. But two years away from home is enough. I would not agree to going on another two-year placement, although I’d quickly agree to a 3-month placement and might be persuaded to go on a 6-month placement.

We intend to visit Uganda in the future and hope to return to see our co-sponsored student, Doreen, graduate from university. We will also visit with other friends we've made here including dear friends Tugume, Mushabe, Ayebaze, Lwamafa, Evodio and their families, and others.

We have enjoyed living on the Bishop Stuart campus and always felt like a part of the community. The staff and their families are wonderful and we will miss them greatly. The campus is safe and in a lovely location. The electrical and water problems and frequent interruptions were simply part of a package that any volunteer can expect. I was always very thankful that we had a proper flushing toilet instead of having to use a long drop outside.

I willingly admit though that we enjoyed the campus much more when Lwamafa Javan was the principal (during our first year). The college was run more effectively, smoothly, and predictably, the atmosphere was happier and staff morale higher when he was there. Javan cared about the students, staff and college and would always listen to suggestions and opinions. We miss him as does everybody.

Uganda's future
I have many suggestions on what Uganda needs to do in order to make much more rapid progress, but since there are already plenty of people who do just that, I've refrained from putting in my 2 shillings except to say corruption and the acceptance of corruption as a fact of life in so many areas including government, roads departments, police, education, businesses, etc. is the main problem.

Last days

2009-09-24T18:12:00.015+03:00

Lwamafa, college principal for our first year, and his wife Jovuline

Seems like everyone has invited us for a goodbye meal and we've enjoyed them all immensely. We had our leaving do/party at the college yesterday and I felt quite sad to say goodbye. Danny wore his kilt which was cause for many giggles. He gave a lovely speech as well.

I was actually surprised at how sad I felt when I locked the door to our house for the last time. It was especially sad to say goodbye to many of the staff and their families. We will miss them all so very much but will be in touch by email, by my blog and by text messages. Many were nearly in tears when saying goodbye to us and I had to restrain myself from crying myself - which worked except for one time. Danny was also very sad to leave the students, especially the 2nd years.

A second year student

Some second year students prepare to go on teaching practice

Second year students

Some of the friends who gave us a going away dinner

Our dear friend Mushabe

Child of friends

After our leaving do

Mini-portrait of 2 years in Uganda

2009-09-14T20:51:00.002+03:00

new arrivals.....

trying to figure out how to phone the VSO office when nobody met us at the airport
arriving at our campus house to find it had 2 beds, a table and chairs and nothing else! having to completely furnish the house.
waking up every morning for a week or two hoping that when I opened my eyes I'd be in our lovely blue bedroom in Scotland
trying to figure out the money. So many zeros!! Then referring to the money as.... 1,000 shs is a single, 5,000 shs is a fiver, etc.
learning how to bargain
trying to figure out how much we should pay for our household furnishings and trying not to pay the very highly-inflated mzungu prices
most people not understanding my accent--me not understanding theirs
being the centre of attention EVERYWHERE
trying matooke, posho, beans, karo and liking them
seeing just about anything being hauled on the back of a motorbike, including a family of 4
roadside coffin shops and the coffin have windows!
potholes the size of a childs swimming pool
fearing for my life every time we were on the road!
unreliable power, no guarantee of running water
MOSQUITOES!!!
extremely poor quality goods - rejects from China.

settling in....

learning the local language and the delighted reactions of Ugandans
feeling my severe culture shock ease considerably after meeting up with other volunteers at our first regional cluster meeting
first trip to Garden City Mall in Kampala - wow. Stuff!!!
finally figuring out the best hand laundry washing system
finally figuring out the best system for doing dishes when water was off in kitchen
figuring out how mozzies got in house
getting comfy sofa and big chairs after 5 months of crappy and uncomfortable furniture
our first meal at a Ugandan's farm and discovering that the children read Shakespeare and classic literature -- an atypical Ugandan family -- reading for pleasure is not common
eating goat (usually good), grasshoppers (emmm...yuck)
meeting all kinds of fellow volunteers--from wonderful and lovely and witty to totally obnoxious and argumentative and everything in between

difficult....

trying to explain an Ipod, washing machine, lawnmower, central heating
the number of times we've been asked why we have so few children
explaining why I don't need to treat my hair--being told I've been blessed by God with such hair
trying to teach someone how to use a mouse, what a desktop/folder/menu is, etc
trying to answer the question 'what is the staple food in your country' to people that eat the same thing day after day after year after year
explaining snow
not being very surprised at how corruption taints so many facets of daily life
saying goodbye to volunteers who've become our friends and are quitting and going home early
trying to convince Ugandans that all westerners are not rich
trying to get used to the almost total lack of timekeeping and punctuality and planning head

memorable or surprising or depressing....

watching a Ugandan being amazed by his first time using binoculars
red ants crawling inside my shoes and biting the hell out of my feet and legs. screaming bloody murder!
lions, elephants, impala, chimps, giraffes, hippos, zebras, etc etc etc.....
seeing pics of our former principal in snow in Dublin and him being so excited about it
watching college students eating chocolate for the first time
coming across a group of kids in raggedy clothes with patchy hair indicating malnutrition
hearing our former principal talk excitedly about being in a plane for the first time and how excited he was to look out the window at the ground and how everything looked so tiny
a toddler running away screaming and crying when she saw us because whites are scary-looking!
finding that Ugandans put their curtains up 'backwards'--pattern facing outside and lining facing inside. getting strange looks when we turned ours around.
being surrounded by chimps after they'd killed and were munching on a monkey
the poor kids in the villages and having far too many siblings for them all to be fed and educated properly
having our families visit and go on safaris with us
staying in posh lodges and simple bandas or tents
a mouth-watering fillet steak and chocolate mousse at Mweya Lodge
the enormous room and claw footed bathtub at Katara Lodge
the first time seeing the Great Rift Valley at Kingfisher Lodge
having a serious drinking session at Lake Mburo with Nikki and Hillary and feeling intoxicated whilst on boat trip on the lake
barefoot kids running on gravel and dirt
barefoot kids walking to school in their pink or purple school uniforms
people eating foods like rice with their hands
people carrying just about anything on their heads
being the centre of attention at a wedding
all the thumbs up and cheers for Obama
amazing people by telling them our ages and them thinking we are really really elderly/aged
the college students realizing that Danny was a 'proper' physics teacher
the students cheering when Danny went into assembly
being surprised at the dirt poor people who have such happy smiles on their faces
getting lost in the swamp on a game drive at Lake Mburo and being chased by a water buffalo

Lions and elephants and warthogs, oh my.....

2009-09-08T16:09:00.018+03:00

Tugume, Danny, Merib

During this past weekend we took a Ugandan friend of ours, Tugume, and his wife, Merib, to Lake Mburo National Park. As is typical for Ugandans they had never been to any national park. The fee is only 5,000 shs ($2.50) for a Ugandan as opposed to $20 for a foreign resident and $30 for a foreign visitor. But the reasons most don't visit is transport costs and taking away the chance to earn a days pay.

The couple were amazed by the zebras, waterbuck, hippos, using the camera, water buffalo, the binoculars!, the cost of meals at the restaurant, the baboons, monkeys, etc.

Merib returned home prior to the next part of the trip but Tugume accompanied us along with 4 other volunteers to Ishasha Ntungwe River Camp. We were very lucky on the game drive in the Ishasha section of Queen Elizabeth National Park as we saw 3 tree-climbing lions sleeping in a tree, and further down the road we saw a big lion lying in the grass.

More pics are in my Flickr album - Tugume in the Parks:http://www.flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157622181318587

Since we had a 24 hour park pass and we didn't need to return the next morning to attempt to spot the lions, we proceeded to the Mweya section of QENP. We spotted many elephants in various parts of the park as well as many other animals. The Kazinga Channel boat trip didn't have enough spots for all us so 2 volunteers and Tugume went. Tugume had never been in a boat before except for a canoe. He was absolutely thrilled with the 2 hour boat trip as he saw elephants, hippos, large crocodiles, birds, and water buffalo.

The final month

2009-09-03T10:12:00.009+03:00

The college is on term break until September 7th so Danny and I have been taking short holidays the last couple of weeks such as two nights at Kingfisher Lodge overlooking the Rift Valley and three nights at Arcadia Cottages at Lake Bunyonyi.

Lake Bunyonyi

On the way back from Lake Bunyonyi we stopped by to see the former principal of our college, Lwamafa Javan.

Danny and Javan

Yesterday we spent the day at the rural home of a recent Bishop Stuart graduate, Everisto, who graduated with Distinction, the first in several years at BSPTC. As usual, we were treated like royalty by the family and all the extended family arrived to see us. The kids couldn't stop looking at us and I got many good photos of them. I can't imagine what it's like to be a black child who had never seen a white person before. We must look very strange. Sometimes babies and toddler cry when they see us but most warm up to us after a while.

Danny, Evaristo and his parents

Tomorrow we return to Lake Mburo with a Ugandan couple who, like most Ugandans, have never been to any of their national parks.

In July when my brother's family visited we had to cancel a night at Ishasha Ntungwe River Camp due to illness. It was part of the Churchill Safaris package so no refund was possible. We were to go on safari at QENP and hopefully see the tree-climbing lions. The manager has offered us the 3 tents and full meals at no charge, so I have invited 4 volunteers to go with us. We will go on Sunday and hope to see the tree-climbing lions this trip. We did not see any on the trip with Danny's daughter and her husband in February and we've been told it's more likely to spot them during the rainy season which is now.

New volunteers

2009-09-01T20:24:00.004+03:00

We are leaving our campus in just over 3 weeks and spending a week in Kampala before flying home. A new group of volunteers arrive Sept. 18th. There are a couple of posts on my blog with advice on what to bring or buy as well as other tips. Links to these posts:

Shopping/dining/hotel tips:
http://volunteersabroad.blogspot.com/2009/08/few-shoppingdining-tips-for-new.html

Tips on settling in - a shopping list:
http://volunteersabroad.blogspot.com/2009/01/tips-on-settling-in-for-volunteers.html

Not a tip but my post on what I will and won't miss and what I'm looking forward to:
http://volunteersabroad.blogspot.com/2009/03/what-i-willwont-miss-when-we-leave.html

Hair salons in Uganda

2009-08-28T19:19:00.003+03:00

It is difficult to find a hair stylist in Uganda that knows how to properly cut mzungu hair, and most will refuse to try. I took my chances twice at salons and had my hair 'butchered'. So I suggest you only go to a salon which is recommended by someone.

A stylist was recommended to me by Maggie, a partner of a volunteer and she always has nice-looking hair. So I finally went to her and was very pleased with the result. I had it cut and two-tone highlighted. The stylist is from Serbia and has a salon in her home which is very near Garden City Mall and the golf course.

Mira'Salon
1-3 Coral Crescent
Kololo
077 404 7200

Socializing with Ugandans

2009-08-24T14:29:00.012+03:00

Many (maybe most) volunteers don't socialize with Ugandans outside the work environment. When we first arrived on our campus one of the college staff told us that previous volunteers would never socialize with or accept dinner invitations to Ugandans homes. It seems that many refuse to eat or even try Ugandan food.

To live in a country for a year or two and never spend a day with a local family is a shame. Something important from the time living here will be missing.

Danny and I have been to two weddings and one funeral. We've been to dinners at the homes of 9 different families, some more than once. A massive quantity and variety of foods are offered and meat is always served as it's considered a very special occasion when they have mzungus for guests.

I always enjoy these outings and look forward to the ones we have planned for September before we go home. A few pics from previous visits......

Doreen, Makerere University student!

2009-08-14T18:17:00.008+03:00

Doreen Nyamwija is now enrolled at Makerere University Business School. In three years time her degree will be a Bachelor of Entrepreneurship and Small Business Management (BESBM). She has a room in a pleasant and secure hostel within walking distance and is ready for classes to begin next week.

Doreen and her mother are extremely grateful and appreciative of the generous sponsors who have given her this chance at a secure and prosperous future. The vast majority of young Ugandans can only dream of having such an opportunity.

Doreen sends heartfelt thanks to the following:

Aillidh (a lovely and generous 6 year old who insisted on helping)
Bill & Roni
Cathy
Christie and Jerry
...and us.

Our gifted student, Doreen

2009-08-02T18:44:00.003+03:00

Today at the secondary school Doreen attended there was a church service followed by a presentation of gifts to the top three recent graduates. We attended this function with Doreen's mother as Doreen is in Kampala. The girls school which is in Ibanda has 800 students and we were impressed by the school and the staff. Doreen had the second highest scores in her class for her A level courses. The gifts her mother received on behalf of Doreen were a large flask (thermos) and a fleece blanket--both very useful items. The headmistress and teachers were very pleased to know that one of their star pupils would be able to attend university. Without sponsorship Doreen would never have been able to find the money to attend.

In a week we will travel to Kampala for a VSO workshop for volunteers who will be leaving in the next 6 months. Doreen's mother will accompany us and whilst there we hope to sort out a hostel for her, get account numbers for wiring funds, and Doreen will register for classes at Makerere University. She is thrilled and we get frequent text messages from her expressing her gratitude! We have faith in her and know without a doubt that she will succeed and we won't be surprised if she goes on to get a master's degree.

A few shopping/dining tips for new volunteers

2009-08-01T20:10:00.000+03:00

As we have been based in Mbarara I have some tips for those whose placement is in/near Mbarara.

Markets with imported goods

Pearl
Kirimi
Lucky (limited choices)
New Beka

Restaurants with western food

Lake View Hotel - it's a gamble when ordering anything on the menu-might be good, might not. Lunch buffet is nice and has African and a few western dishes. Also has a nice pool which you can use for 7,500 shs.
Agip Motel and Restaurant - we enjoy their food and a couple of favourites for omnivores - fillet for all seasons, and beef stir fry with rice
Classic Hotel - food is good but service is very slow. The second floor balcony is a nice place to sit and enjoy a beer and watch the goings on in the street.

In Kampala near the VSO office in Muyenga

Chez Johnson - do NOT stay there - we're heard many complaints about them and it's very noisy during the night as well
DO go to the Indian Summer restaurant which is in the same complex as Chez Johnson. Great food!
Fuego - down the road from VSO across from the Chinese restaurant - good meals - great beef - nice atmosphere in a large garden
Italian Market across from the office - a very popular spot for volunteers and NGO employees who live/work in the area. The shop has many imported items, the sandwiches are good, and the ice cream in the cafe is also a good treat.
Cafe Roma - on the same road as VSO but about a mile away - great if you order Italian food but we've been very disappointed in the other options such as pork or steak.
Shalom Hotel - near the office - we haven't stayed there but others recommend it.
International Landmark - close to the office - more expensive than others in the area but we enjoy it as it was where we spent our first night in Uganda and the staff treat us as old friends since we always stay there when in Kampala.

Other Kampala shops/restaurants

Le Patisserie - in the Quality Hill shopping centre with Le Petit Village Hotel and Le Chateau restaurant near the US embassy. Good bread and pastries.
Garden City Mall! - Uchumi is my favourite for stocking up on foods/household items/toiletries. You'll get more variety, large economy sizes, less items past their sell by date, and a cheaper price for many items than you'll get in Mbarara.
Lugogo Mall - Game - If you need any small appliance or utensil for the kitchen they will have it. We bought a small fridge/freezer at Game for about 300,000shs. Shoprite is also good and has some items you can't get at Uchumi.

Entebbe

Airport Guesthouse Entebbe is a great place to chill when waiting for a flight. There is a small garden and a veranda with comfy chairs. Regular rate is $55/night for a double or twin. However, if you let them know you are a volunteer they'll only charge you $45. Dinner is $15 and is good but not spectacular. Beware of going in the rainy season though as you'll be bombarded by annoying lake flies when you sit outside and take care that they don't get into your room.

Products

Small appliances and other products that are made in China but would not be accepted by the American or European market are sent to African countries. We are on our third electric tea kettle.

I recommend a Philips iron as it can survive many falls to the floor and I've had the same one for 2 years.

We purchased a fan at Uchumi that was made in Japan - Nikai - and after frequent use over the past 18-20 months it's still working fine.

Toilet paper - I have tried every brand and the best one is Golden Lion. Don't buy Golden Camel as it's similar to using a newspaper!

Update on Doreen

2009-07-29T10:35:00.002+03:00

Doreen, the young lady who is being sponsored to attend university by friends, family and us, has been accepted to two programmes. Unfortunately, the competition for the law programmes was fierce and she was not accepted to either one. She has chosen to accept the Bachelor of Business Management programme at Makerere University.

I will add details later as typing in a moving car on bumpy roads is getting to be a bit too much!

Holiday and other stuff......

2009-07-27T17:25:00.008+03:00

For the past two weeks my family (brother, his wife, 2 kids) toured Uganda with a safari company. Memorable (and forgettable) experiences:

Lake Mburo National Park - great game walk with more animals than we've ever seen on a walk - many buffalo, zebra, impala, waterbuck.....
Arcadia Cottages, Lake Mburo - nice rooms, good food, very nice staff
Great driver and guide - Lamech - from Churchill Safaris
Lakeview Hotel, Mbarara - stayed too long due to food poisoning - no one was crazy about the menu options
We had dinner with Doreen, the student we are both co-sponsoring for university. She enjoyed her first time in a swimming pool and splashed around with our niece, Gracie.
Visited our college campus and house
Had to miss out on Ishasha and the Ishasha Ntungwe River Camp due to illness
Queen Elizabeth National Park & Mweya Lodge - good boat trip, good food, game drive but with sparse animals. On the way back from drive saw about 40-50+ elephants of all sizes!! (see pic below)
Kingfisher Lodge - great view but lacking good menu
Lake Albert Lodge - a stopoff on the way to Murchison Falls - nice but not spectacular
Paraa Safari Lodge - on the Nile - good pool with a poolside bar - varying opinions on whether the food was good or not - good desserts - good game drive - did a follow-the-leader of other safari vehicles in pursuit of views of a leopard - brilliant!! giraffes, oribis and others - boat trip was very long and boring (agreement by all), we saw few crocodiles, the tail of a leopard, way too many tsetse flies, the falls were not very impressive.
Roads from Fort Portal to Murchison were pure hell. Next time we would take the good road from Fort Portal to Kampala, stay one night, then go to Murchison via the good road through Masindi.
Airport Guesthouse Entebbe was our accommodation for our first and last night since it is about 10 minutes from the airport - good place to hang out.

Will have news on Doreen's status with all the universities she applied to quite soon.
Our airline tickets home to Scotland have been booked and we fly out on Oct 2nd.

On a totally unrelated note...we went shopping in Kampala today and went into a new shop. I saw paper towels (not common here) and began to grab a roll even though I've done fine without them. It was a jumbo roll and I happened to notice the price was 8,000 shs (the equivalent of $4!). For one roll!! Yes, I put it back.

Mixed emotions

2009-07-02T11:42:00.002+03:00

3 months from today we leave Uganda to return home to Scotland. As happy and excited as I am about going back to Scotland after being away for 2 years, I feel an overwhelming sense of sadness. Aside from missing Ugandans in general, I'll also miss friends we've made, the landscape, the weather, even beans and matooke and posho, and karo.

If I still feel sad on the flight home I've decided to play some of my favourite Dougie Maclean tunes!

Update on Doreen, future lawyer

2009-06-14T12:09:00.002+03:00

Yesterday we met with Doreen who had just returned from 2 weeks in Kampala. Besides applying to Uganda Christian University she has also applied to Makerere and Kyambogo. She has applied for the law programme at all three as well as several alternate programmes, but her first choice is definitely law. Competition for the law programmes is fierce, so we are crossing our fingers that she's accepted to one of them. From what I've heard Makerere is the largest and best university in Uganda, so if she is accepted to that one her future will be very bright indeed!

While Doreen is waiting for the results she has been devouring most of our books as she is a voracious reader.

Results from the universities are expected the end of June and beginning of July. UCU results are delayed due to the university adding interviews with prospective students instead of simply accepting by exam results.

Danny is busy teaching IT classes (unless the power is out) so we won't be doing any travelling until mid July when my family comes. Since my family is one of Doreen't sponsors we have arranged for her to meet them while they are here.

A few more cultural differences

2009-05-28T12:52:00.005+03:00

Rain

Everything and everybody stop when it rains. Students and teachers don't go to school. Employees don't go to work. This even happens in Kampala. It was explained to me by a university-educated bank employee that the reason they wait until the rain is off to go to work is that people will get their shoes and nice clothes wet and muddy due to all the puddles in the bad roads. No one seems to consider the fact that there are alternatives. People who can afford it can wear rainboots, long raincoat, or simply wear old shoes and casual clothes, changing into work clothes upon arrival at one's place of employment. People in the trading centres and villages are not worried about getting business clothes muddy, but seem to simply prefer not to get wet, even if this means losing money at their business.

I am sure this contributes to Uganda's slow journey to progress, along with little understanding of the importance of good timekeeping and punctuality.

School practice and trucks

PTC students partipate in several student teaching practices at local primary schools. The tutors at the core primary teachers' colleges observe, grade and advise them.

Transportation to these schools, most of which are a long distance down bumpy dirt roads, is by 4 door pickup truck. All the tutors can't fit in the seats so they sit in the back of the truck on the edge, holding on where possible. Many stand up as it's less jolting when going over the bumps. The back of a truck is a common mode of transport here, and, of course, in an accident many are killed. We've been met with disbelief when we point out that in our countries the driver would be arrested for this.

Cold bath/shower

Recently we were discussing cold showers and baths with a couple of our neighbours, and mentioned that we heat water for hot bath or camping shower. They found this incomprehensible, saying they prefer a cold bath/shower, even when the weather is chilly. One person thought taking a hot bath or shower would make you sweat!

Jacana Lodge - QENP

2009-05-18T18:16:00.012+03:00

Over the weekend Danny and I stayed at a lodge we hadn’t visited before – Jacana Lodge.
http://www.geolodgesafrica.com/jacana_safari_lodge.htm

I inquired by email if there was a discount rate for residents and was pleased to learn there was. (so volunteers should always ask!)

Jacana is located inside Queen Elizabeth National Park and is on a crater lake in the Rift Valley. The lodge is in the forest and is located about 11km from the main road on a dirt track which is in good condition. The design and décor of this lodge is incredibly well done and full of character. There is a swimming pool next to the lake, many comfortable seating areas for lounging or taking meals, and a large fireplace in one of the seating areas, all of which overlook the lake.

The lodge has 10 self-contained wooden chalets and one family cottage. The rooms are fabulous – spacious, comfortable, tastefully designed, and the many windows are screened and has a seating area overlooking the lake. Hot water is available at all times as the water is heated by wood fire. There is a generator for electricity and is switched on between 6.30 am (5.30 am if a guest is leaving early on a game drive/walk) until about 8am, and in the evening from 6.30 to 10.30. Conveniences in the room include a torch/flashlight, candles, bottled water, a large umbrella, and a can of Doom. I am sure the Doom is mainly for bees which can get into the room as I did not notice any mosquitoes at all even though it was rainy during our visit.

Service was impeccable and the staff were very friendly and obviously well-trained. Meals were delicious, creative and visually appealing! Breakfast was a buffet with fresh fruit, pastries, juice, cereals. Eggs and sausage were made to order. Pastries were not typically Ugandan (in other words they were good!) and the bread was homemade. Lunch was a full 3-course meal. Our first lunch began with a starter of avocado, mango, diced carrots and pineapple, onions, lettuce, nuts with a sauce (scrumptious). The main course (we had a choice of 3) was a generous portion of tender medallions of fillet beef, potatoes and vegetable. Dessert was a bowl of fresh fruit. Dinner that evening was equally impressive as were lunch and dinner the following day.

We took a one-hour pontoon trip in the lake which was very relaxing. We spotted a few red tailed monkeys, various birds, the Rwenzori Mountains. The lodge provides tandem ocean kayaks but we did not avail ourselves of one. The lake has hippos in certain areas, no crocodiles and only very small fish. We could hear chimps calling from the forest across the lake. You can also have a meal aboard the pontoon on a cruise in the lake.

Throughout the day, and especially at night, we enjoyed hearing a symphony of animal sounds – various birds, monkeys, chimps, baboons, insects, etc. Before we leave Uganda we will return for a visit.

Lake Bunyonyi - May

2009-05-11T14:29:00.006+03:00

The college is still on term break, so Danny and I took another wee trip and spent 5 days and 4 nights at Lake Bunyonyi, very close to the Rwandan border. Due to the high elevation (about 2500 metres) the weather is normally quite cool in the morning and after sunset, but since this is the tail-end of the rainy season it’s been very cool or cold most of the time. A plus side to this is there are very few mosquitoes and a mozzie net is not required on the beds.

We were at Lake Bunyonyi during the xmas holiday in 2007 but did not hike to the top of the mountain, so we did so this time. Since it had rained the day before we took the road to the top instead of the muddy shortcut through forests. On our journey we walked past many locals on or near the road and greeted them in their language, Rukiga, which is similar to the language in our area - Runyankole. As always, the response was giggles or smiles of delight.

As we walked through one small village the children literally swarmed us. One large group of 3-7 year olds (from an orphanage?) greeted us with songs. Many wanted their photos taken which I would have loved to do but declined due to past experiences of being followed and pestered non-stop. Since we were on our way to the tourist hotel located at the top of the mountain these children were used to seeing mzungus and many asked us to give them money or pencils/pens. Actually, they don’t learn this phrase as a question, but as a demand, ‘give me money’. Children aged 3 or 4 or older usually know some English phrases or words including ‘how are you’ and ‘I’m fine’. We replied to their requests for money with ‘ngaha, nikibi’ which means ‘no, bad’ and told them not to beg. Unfortunately, tourists or short-term charity/NGO workers give away pencils, other gifts and money, thus training the children to be beggars and to expect (rich) white people to give you things.

We passed a group working in a field and exchanged greetings in their language. On the way back we passed the same group and one of the men said in Rukiga, ‘kurakayo’ meaning ‘welcome back’, to which we replied ‘narugayo’ meaning ‘thanks, it’s nice to be back’. The group was thrilled that we knew these words and one man said ‘excellent’ and gave us a ‘thumbs up’.

When we reached the top we sat at Arcadia Cottages for tea and lunch and enjoyed the spectacular view. While there we inquired into staying in one of the cottages for one night and decided to extend our visit by one night.

We stayed at the same hotel as before for the first 3 nights:
http://www.traveluganda.co.ug/crater-bay-cottages/
65,000 shs (about $32 USD) for a double and does not include any meals. The cottages are near the lake and dugout canoes are free for guests to use. The cottages have electricity and hot showers. Since it was cold and kept threatening rain we decided against going out this time.

Meals were much better and the service much quicker than our previous visit. The vegetable curry with rice, the beans/matooke/vegetables, and the cole slaw were fabulous. Danny is not a fan of salads but ate the huge portion of cole slaw – a high compliment.

We spent our final night at Arcadia Cottages. The interior of the cottages is much brighter and more spacious and modern than Crater Bay. A double was 120,000 shs (about $60 USD) and included breakfast. It also had satellite TV but as is common in many Ugandan hotels this is restricted to whatever channel has been selected in the bar.
http://www.traveluganda.co.ug/arcadiacottages/

We were very impressed with the service, food, accommodation, gardens, and spectacular view and will return in August during term break and dry season.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/collections/72157602736722927/

Updates: Doreen, misc photos

2009-05-05T21:24:00.006+03:00

Update on Doreen

We have sufficient sponsorship from some generous people and are now anxiously awaiting the results of her application to Uganda Christian University in the Law programme. If accepted she will begin UCU in September.

Pics uploaded to my Flickr albums

Bushenyi District (May Day visit):

http://www.flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157617683856402/

Mweya Lodge (our anniversary weekend in April):

http://www.flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157617690535128/

Kath and Riaan Tour (finally added pics taken by Kathleen or Riaan on their visit in Feb.):

http://www.flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157613832067430/

Indulging on May Day weekend

2009-05-03T20:08:00.006+03:00

Over the May Day holiday weekend Danny and I were guests at the homes of dear friends - one
family on Friday and the other on Saturday. (The goat in the previous post was one of the courses on Friday. And he was delicious!) The home is deep in the mountains in the Bushenyi District - a 30km drive down a rocky and sometimes very steep road. The scenery is simply spectacular with lush greenery and tea plantations and mountains.

Very few white people travel down this road as there are no colleges or NGO's and the road
does not lead to any tourist destinations. It would be safe to say that most, if not all, of the younger children had never seen a white person (mzungu) before. One child age 2 or 3 saw us driving down the road and she ran screaming and crying to her mother, tripping along the way. We were the object of much more attention than we normally get, which is quite a lot anyway.

The home we visited is high up a hill overlooking beautiful scenery. Our friend/colleague has a tea plantation and grows other crops as well. Many members of the extended family were there so we enjoyed meeting many people. The parents who are in their 70's did not speak English so there was a bit of interpretation needed. They were pleased that we spoke some of their language - Runyankole.

The food was plentiful, extraordinarily plentiful, and very delicious. It's customary in Uganda for the guests, senior male members of the family and the elderly to eat first while the females and children eat later.

Our meal the next day was a much quieter affair and we ate with just the husband and wife. Food was again plentiful and very delicious. (ebyokurya nibirungi - the food was good).
I'm beginning to feel very sad about leaving certain people here...actually, Ugandans in general, but certain people in particular.. We plan to return and see everyone on a holiday but that will likely be a long time in the future. Several people have asked us to extend our placement, but longer than 2 years is just too long to be away from our home.

It's a shame that people who visit Uganda cannot partake of a meal with a local family. Some
of my family will be visiting in a couple of months and we've racked our brains trying to figure
out how to arrange this. Unfortunately, our itinerary doesn't allow time for it.

Photos I took in Bushenyi will be uploaded to my photo album in a couple of days. The album will be called Bushenyi.

A goat.....and a passport....

2009-04-30T14:14:00.004+03:00

No....the goat didn't eat a passport.

We have been invited to the farm of our next door neighbour for a big meal tomorrow with his entire family. In Uganda meat is always served when guests are invited. So tomorrow's special course is tied to a tree across the road from our homes. Personally, I like goat meat but I've never seen a live animal prior to consuming it at a meal.

And for totally unrelated news....I have finally got my UK passport!!! I was granted citizenship before we left for Uganda and did not have time to apply for the passport. I was under the impression that I couldn't get a first-time passport outside the UK, but discovered to my delight that I could. Last week we were in Kampala for a meeting so Thursday we went to the British High Commission to submit our applications (Danny needed a renewal). I was asked to return the next morning for the interview as a first-time UK passport applicant. The passports were ready later Monday morning. How's that for efficiency?!

In answer to a question I often get.... NO, I did not give up my US citizenship! I am a dual citizen.

Doreen, hopeful law student....cont.

2009-04-29T20:34:00.006+03:00

A huge thanks to those who have committed to help Doreen attend university. The university will distribute acceptance letters in late May or early June. We informed Doreen yesterday that we had some contributors and she struggled to control her emotions as shown by her ear-to-ear smile and teary eyes.

Thus far we have committments for:

£10 plus proceeds from car boot sales, etc. from 2 lovely wee girls (Aillidh and Roisin) in Scotland and their mum
25% of the total from a wonderful family in Michigan
25% of the total from a generous family in England

We need more contributors to guarantee Doreen's 4 years of university. There are a couple of my blog subscribers who are very generous and good-hearted people that I haven't heard from yet..... hint, hint.....

Since contributions will be in US dollars and British pounds and exchange rates with the Ugandan shilling fluctuate, the simplest mode of payment will be to me (via Paypal, check/cheque/cash) and will be wired from my account to the Uganda Christian University's bursar's office prior to each semester. Danny and I will supplement any shortfall in the totals each semester.

Updates on Doreen's progress will be sent to all contributors on a regular basis.

Correction to request for student sponsorship

2009-04-21T18:07:00.002+03:00

RE: previous post:
I was misinformed as to the number of semesters per year at Uganda Christian University. There are 2 semesters per year not 3, so the figures will be much lower.

The cost per semester is as follows:
Tuition for Bachelor of Laws: 1,038,000 shilliings
Fees: 395,000
Room and Board: 500,000
Total: 1,933,000 per semester x 2 semesters per year

At today's exchange rate that would be an annual committment of:
If paying in US dollars:$ 920.00 per semeseter x 2 = $ 1840
If paying in British pounds:£ 622.00 per semester x 2 = £ 1244

If this is split between 2, 3 or 4 people the cost is quite small.

Sponsorship of student for law degree

2009-04-20T16:17:00.007+03:00

Danny and I get many requests to sponsor students for secondary school or universities and since we haven't won the lottery and, therefore, can't sponsor them all, we have chosen a local girl. Doreen Nyamwija is 18 and has recently completed secondary school with good grades. Her mother has been a widow for 18 years and teaches at a school for deaf and disabled children. On a teacher's salary of 200,000 shillings ($100) per month she can't afford to send Doreen to university.

Doreen likes literature, especially the classics. Her favourite books are Romeo and Juliet and Jane Eyre. When she is not studying or doing tasks to help her mother she loves to read. Her ambition is to obtain a degree in law but is unsure yet which direction she'd like to go with a degree. The Bachelor of Laws degree takes 4 years with an additional year of internship.

The university she has applied for is Uganda Christian University.
http://www.ucu.ac.ug/

Uganda Christian University is located 23 kilometres from Kampala, in Mukono town, on the the main road to Jinja. It is a private university, chartered and fully accredited by the President of the Republic of Uganda, through the Ministry of Higher Education and Sports, and the National Council for Higher Education.

UCU is owned by the Province of the Church of Uganda, and has campuses in Eastern, Western and Northern Uganda.

The University was born out of Bishop Tucker Theological College. The college was founded in 1913 in response to a growing need for pastors in the Church.

Uganda Christian University has all the necessities for an excellent education. It is recognised internationally and nationally. The Most Rev. Henry Luke Orombi, Archbishop of the Church of Uganda is Chancellor, and the Rt. Rev. Dr George Carey is our Patron.

Uganda Christian University is the first African affiliate member of the Council of Christian Colleges and Universities in the United States, and a member of the Colleges and Universities of the Anglican Communion.
The cost per semester is as follows:
Tuition for Bachelor of Laws: 1,038,000 shilliings
Fees: 395,000
Room and Board: 500,000
Total: 1,933,000 per semester at 3 semesters per year

At today's exchange rate that would be an annual committment of:
$ 920.00 per semeseter x 3 = $ 2760
£ 622.00 per semester x 3 = £1866

Danny and I would like to share sponsorship of Doreen with other people. Tuition/fees/room and board would be wired directly from your bank to the university. Please contact me at: annie52lf-vso@yahoo.co.uk if you would like to help this deserving, intelligent young lady have a chance at a good future.
=========================
Correction to above costs as there are 2 semesters per year, not 3.

At today's exchange rate that would be an annual committment of:
If paying in US dollars:$ 920.00 per semester x 2 = $ 1840
If paying in British pounds:£ 622.00 per semester x 2 = £ 1244

If this is split between 2, 3 or even 4 people the cost is quite small.

Ummmm... a hardware bug?

2009-04-03T14:54:00.003+03:00

Danny found this when he taking apart one of the college computers. He claims to have discovered the first 'hardware bug'. LOL.

Wasps make nests EVERYBLOODYWHERE! So annoying.

Computer books and CD-ROMs

2009-03-30T14:31:00.004+03:00

The computer books and CD-ROMs arrived today. The box was smashed (as usual for Ugandan post) but contents are fine.

Thanks so very much to Linda and Ron and all who donated. It is very much appreciated!!

PS. Thanks for the chocolate!

Adventure?

2009-03-29T14:32:00.003+03:00

Right. Aye, okay. Uh huh. Methinks the adventure of living in Uganda is well and truly gone! Evidence of this is that I'm very excited about finding this product:

As can be expected the dish soap/washing up liquid here is of even lower quality that the cheapest you'd find in the UK/US. Coupled with not have hot running water, this had made doing the dishes more difficult. This product is solid, cuts grease and has tons of lather and makes doing the dishes much quicker and easier.

Well, at any rate, it's good for future volunteers to know about.

Deafness in Uganda

2009-03-25T16:15:00.004+03:00

This morning we were entertained with a play by a troupe of deaf Ugandans. They are called The Silent Theatre and they were very talented. The play was done in sign language but there was a woman who translated everything into English, and did it quite well.

In Uganda those who are deaf or have any type of disability are often treated as people who are useless or flawed and not capable of having a productive life. The troupes' message is 'disability does mean inability'.

This troupe is performing at many of the Primary Teachers' Colleges in order to enlighten future teachers about the capabilities of deaf students.

A few thoughts.....

2009-03-22T18:35:00.003+03:00

A couple of cultural differences....

One of the cultural differences between the west and Uganda is that women are shocked to learn that my husband does all the cooking. I was told today by our neighbour's wife that men in this culture do not and should not do the cooking. Previously, another wife had told me that it would be shameful for a Ugandan husband to do the cooking and implied that I should be ashamed. I got the impression from both of them that they thought we would suddenly change this routine to comply with the Ugandan way. Ummm......no.

Another cultural difference must be the result of how Ugandans are taught English. A polite request is often made to sound like a command. An example is that a neighbour of ours wanted to borrow some DVD's to play for his family. However, what he said was 'give me some DVD's'. Not please, not may I, not would you. He didn't realize that in other cultures this would be extremely impolite and would be met with sarcasm, anger or a refusal.

Other volunteers....

It is very important for volunteers/partners to get support from fellow volunteers. A solid support network can make a difference between someone deciding to complete their placement and becoming disillusioned and leaving early. Volunteers have something major in common which can be a basis for bonding and creating long-term friendships. This is not to say that all volunteers get along with each other, because this is not the case. However, Danny and I have made some good friends here and plan to keep in touch after leaving Uganda.

Explaining the economic meltdown....

2009-03-13T16:38:00.003+03:00

The economic crisis affects the world. In Uganda we've noticed prices rising and a leap in the exchange rate. This book is very relevant regardless of where you live.

Managed by the Markets: How Finance Has Re-Shaped America

by Gerald F. Davis

(hardback available May 15, 2009)
available for pre-order on Amazon for $19.97

http://tinyurl.com/d469ms

Editorial reviews:The meltdown of American financial markets has been catastrophic but the cause elusive. In Managed by the Markets, Gerald Davis offers a compelling explanation for it and so much more. To understand the disintegration of big corporations, securitization of just about everything, and transformation of our zeitgeist from producing products to making money, this is the book, a gripping portrait of the triumph of financial markets over all else."--Michael Useem, Professor of Management and Director of the Leadership Center at the Wharton School, University of Pennsylvania

"In this intellectual tour de force, Jerry Davis describes the evolution of the American economy to where we are now-where everything is a security or an option and, therefore, tradable in some sort of market. He also details the profound costs we have paid for this evolution. Timely, engaging, and filled with facts and analysis, Managed by the Markets explains how we got to where we are and maybe, just maybe, where we need to go next."--Jeffrey Pfeffer, Professor of Organizational Behavior at Stanford University and author of What Were They Thinking? Unconventional Wisdom About Management

What I will/won't miss when we leave Uganda

2009-03-07T08:53:00.011+03:00

I read/heard from a few people who claim the 18 month mark in a 2 year volunteer placement is significant to many volunteers/partners. We’ll be at that mark in about 3 weeks. At this point I believe one becomes a ‘short-timer’. Volunteers will assess how much they’ve accomplished and have yet to accomplish.

For me, being a short-timer makes any wee twinges of homesickness relatively painless. It also makes me look around Uganda more closely and think about what I’ll miss.

What I will miss in Uganda:
~Many people on the BSPTC campus
~A few locals and the former principal
~Some fellow volunteers
~The Ugandan people in general as they are so very friendly and helpful
~The climate!!!!!!!!
~The pineapples and avocados
~The matoke and posho and kabaragara
~Fried goat (and chips) washed down with a cold Club
~The delighted reactions of Ugandans when I speak to them in Runyankole
~The beaming faces of the young kids shouting and waving at us as we drive/walk past
~The national parks and going on safari
~The cute geckos
~Our 4WD car that can get through ANYTHING
~Lush green scenery, lovely landscape, miles and miles of banana trees

What I won’t miss:~Agonizingly slow internet
~The mosquitoes!!!
~All the spiders!
~The useless task of sweeping dirt off the floors only to be dirty soon after
~Unreliable electricity and water
~Cold showers – not having hot running water
~The inconvenience of having to use a mozzie net on beds
~Hand washing the laundry
~SG (don’t ask!)
~The potholed roads and bad drivers
~The lack of variety of food in the grocery stores
~All the electrical and other stuff that doesn’t work!!
~Having to use boiled/bottled water

What I’m looking forward to at home in Scotland:
~Seeing friends and Danny’s family
~Our house, the location and the view!!!!
~Having breakfast in bed in our lovely blue bedroom with the view over the loch
~Wholegrain sunflower bread from our breadmaker
~My washer and drier!
~Big screen tv and Sky satellite
~Bacon rolls, scones, haddock and chips
~Proper fresh biscuits—Hob Nobs!
~Being able to drive
~Tesco!
~High speed internet!!
~Rubbish pickup

Packages and Ugandan postal 'service'

2009-02-27T15:45:00.004+03:00

There have been packages posted to us here in Uganda which have never been received.

I just wanted to let everyone know who has sent a package, such as items requested for the college computer lab, that none have arrived. We have received no packages, only letters, since early autumn. A couple of staff members check the PO box and both can be trusted completely. The fault will lie with the post office, most likely here in Uganda.

Uganda trip report

2009-02-17T16:38:00.008+03:00

Danny's daughter, Kathleen, and her husband, Riaan, visited us for the first two weeks in February. Aside from a couple of 'glitches' we all enjoyed the trip.

On the trip which began with an overnight stay in Kampala, we visited Lake Mburo National Park, Mbarara, Katara Lodge in Kichwamba (near QENP), Mweya Lodge in Queen Elizabeth National Park, Ishasha Ntungwe River Camp near the Ishasha gate for QENP, Kibale Forest, Fort Portal, and spent the last night in Entebbe.Since there were only 4 of us we used our own car and Danny did most of the driving including game drives, Riaan also helped drive.

Most of our accommodation rates included 3 full meals a day--full breakfasts, 2 or 3 course lunches, and dinners which included a starter, soup, main course and dessert. Most of us are all a bit larger than we were at the beginning of the trip.Photos are in this album:http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157613832067430/detail/

A detailed trip report is in a separate blog:http://ugandakathleenriaan.blogspot.com/

Highlights

Seeing elephants close up on the Ishasha game drive, including one which became annoyed at us for being in its ‘personal space’.
Hearing the tale of Riaan hanging outside the car window on Mweya QENP game drive and coming too close to a lion lying nearby!
The local family entertaining us at Ishasha with dancing and drumming.
The refreshing pool at Mweya with an amazing view over Lake Edward.
The delighted reactions when we spoke any of the local language.
Seeing elephants on the shoreline of Lake Edward.
Having a long, hot shower at Lake View Hotel after 2 days w/o washing. Ewww…
Meeting other tourists.
Being in accommodation where we actually got COLD beer.
Having loads of laughs with Kathleen and Riaan. Nothing to do with beer consumption…..
Soaking in the clawed tub whilst enjoying the view of the Rift Valley at Katara Lodge.
Listening to the animal sounds at night from our rooms or tents.
The absolutely incredibly gorgeous meals at Mweya, Katara, Arcadia Cottages, Ishasha Ntungwe River Camp, and Primate Lodge.
Walking through the tangle of branches and vines trying to keep up with our guide in Kibale Forest in search of chimps.
Hearing the chimps calling to each other.
The highly energetic traditional dancing at the Primate Lodge.
Listening to the lions at a not-too-great-distance from our tents early in the morning at Ishasha River Camp.
Winding down the trip at the Airport Guesthouse in Entebbe and just hanging out in the lovely gardens and on the comfortable porch

On a tour of Uganda.....

2009-02-15T12:29:00.007+03:00

...with Danny's daughter, Kathleen, and her husband, Riaan.

We travelled mainly through western Uganda with them for two weeks and they flew back to the very cold UK this morning. A complete trip report will be posted when it is completed, as will the many photos be uploaded to my Flickr album.

This elephant is very annoyed with us for blocking his way. Baboons grooming each other. And, of course, the tourists who are very thirsty from all this wildlife tracking!

On safari

2009-02-04T20:24:00.003+03:00

We are currently travelling around Uganda with Danny's daughter and her husband. Our itinerary includes the national parks of Lake Mburo, Queen Elizabeth - including the Isasha area, and Kibale Forest.

Photos soon!

Tips on settling in for volunteers outside of Kampala

2009-01-12T09:32:00.004+03:00

These are tips only for volunteers outside of Kampala since Kampala is a totally different world from the rest of Uganda - plenty of shopping malls, etc.

Volunteers get houses/rooms/cottages/flats which will have no furnishings, partly furnished, or fully furnished. Be prepared for one which is completely empty so you won’t be shocked. You may have electricity and running water or you may not.

Our house had a table, 2 wooden chairs, 2 single beds with mattresses and a toilet brush. No dishes, nothing to clean with, no basins for doing laundry, no clothesline, no sheets, blankets, etc. It took many months to fully furnish our house.

Furnishing your home:
Before you leave for Uganda, take a good look around your house, especially your kitchen. We were discovering items we needed after many weeks even months. Being faced with an empty kitchen and a disorganized shop for purchasing kitchen items can be daunting. You suddenly are faced with trying to remember what was in your kitchen and you don’t realize what you are missing until you are cooking and need the item. Here is a list I made after furnishing our house to help volunteers who came after us.

Kitchen:
Knives, forks, teaspoons, big spoons
Spatula
Large spoon for cooking
Soup ladle
Water jugs
Pots and pans—don’t buy the ones with plastic handles as they often fall off
Large plates, small plates
Bowls for cereal/soup
Containers for leftovers and storage
Set of large, lidded containers - the largest can be used for food packet rubbish to keep out disgusting critters, etc.
Tightly sealed containers for flour, sugar, rice etc.
Mugs, glasses
Teapot
Tin/can opener
Bottle opener
Chopping knife
Set of smaller knives – paring, etc.
Mixing bowl
Strainer for rice and pasta, etc.
Chopping board
Shopping bags
Sticky hooks for walls for utensils, hand towels, etc
-------------------------
Plastic Basins:
small for dishes
3 large for laundry
medium sized for bathing
------------------------
Misc:
laundry basket
Rubbish bin(s)
Dish drainer
Clothes pegs
Clothesline
Iron
Ironing board
---------------------------
cleaning cloths
sponges
scouring pads
hand towels
----------------------
dish soap
laundry detergent
Bath soap
General cleaning liquid
scouring powder
--------------
scrub brush
broom
floor mop and bucket
-------------
candles and holders and lighters or rechargeable light
long handled squeegie for shower floor
Rolling plastic storage shelves or other shelving/cupboard
Plastic wardrobe
Jerry cans – even if you have running water in the house
Clothes hangers

Gardening tools
hoe, spade, rake, fertilizer, insecticide
slasher for lawn
heavy duty gardening gloves (hard to find good quality here – buy them before you come)

If you have electricity I highly recommend getting a small refrigerator and a surge protector. Unlike most of our neighbours we've had no trouble with cockroaches or rats, which we're sure is due to keeping all food in a refrigerator or in tightly sealed containers. Dishes are washed immediately after use.

If at all possible do your household shopping in Kampala. You can get just about anything at Uchumi in Garden City mall and Game at Lugogo Mall.

TO BRING WITH YOU:
Surge protector strips – power outlets are the same as the UK – the ones you buy are are likely to be of very poor quality. I bought one here and it caught on fire!
(Electrical items are poorly made in Uganda and will have Ugandan/UK plugs, European 2 pronged plugs, or South African which is another type altogether.)

Bring lots of tshirts as they will fade from the sun or get blotchy from the harsh detergents.

Hat with brim.

Bath towels – thin for easier hand washing (it’s hard to find absorbent towels here)

If, like me, you are allergic to anything perfumey and need everything unscented/hypoallergenic, bring it with you. I also had to bring large quantities of single vile eye drops (for dry eyes) as you can’t buy them here.

Other:
You can get a USB mobile phone modem for the internet here. It’s very s…..l…..o…..w… but worth it. At MTN the monthly cost after buying the modem and giving a deposit is 90,000 shillings. Uganda Telecom has a new high speed mobile internet but the price is 220,000 per month.

If you have electricity I recommend buying an electric kettle. You need to boil all your drinking water and doing so on a cooker takes a lot of time and fuel.

I will edit this post to add an additional information I think will be helpful.

Any specific questions, just post them in comments here.

Back in Uganda

2009-01-10T20:20:00.006+03:00

We have returned from our 3 week holiday in Michigan with my family. It was wonderful to see everybody (especially my granddaughter), but the cold weather was hard to bear. It's good to be back in this lovely, warm weather. The power was off for most of today which was irritating as we had quickly become used to modern conveniences including high speed internet.

We have been told by 3 people that we look very pale, much whiter than when we left. Guess our slight tans have totally faded.

I was asked 'what is it like to live in Uganda?'. Very broad question which is difficult to answer. I will try to give a type of answer.

horrible roads with an incredible amount of potholes - long drives are not pleasant except for a certain few roads
barefoot kids running around outside creating their own kind of play
roadside markets filled with gorgeous fruits and vegs - all neatly stacked
dust and dirt, lots of it
beautiful smiles and friendly people
mosquitoes, mosquitoes, mosquitoes
bright coloured clothes - always neatly pressed
laundry hanging out to dry on just about anything - a fence, tree, lying on the grass, etc.
lack of timekeeping - forget about punctuality
bargaining for most purchases
people bending over pulling weeds for hours at a time
independant toddlers playing all day on their own
cute geckos running through the house and up the walls
hawkers selling just about anything
babies being carried in a shawl tied to the mother's back
overcrowded motorbike, van, car taxis
people walking, walking, walking...everywhere
being a celebrity based on the simple fact that we are white
kids waving at us all the time
very low quality goods, especially electrical ones
losing electricity for many hours
no hot running water, ever
pit toilets, although we are fortunate to have a indoor toilet
being aware that the word 'wealthy' is tattoed across our white faces
wearing sandals or being barefoot, all year
perfect warm weather
high carb Ugandan diets
fat being attractive
not being able to drink the water w/o boiling it - not even to rinse your mouth or toothbrush

Runyankole Language - Files Uploaded

2009-01-01T03:30:00.001+03:00

I have finished the Runyankole web page with downloadable .pdf files and audio file. I will likely add to it later.

http://www.mzungu.350.com/

Happy New Year!!

2009-01-01T01:32:00.002+03:00

Runyankole Language - Downloadable Files

2008-12-20T16:29:00.003+03:00

I have uploaded the audio file and a couple of the text files to this web page:

http://www.mzungu.350.com/

I am in the US for the holidays and while here will try to finish typing the notes and upload them to the page.

Season's Greetings - HO HO HO!

Money

2008-12-01T18:39:00.010+03:00

This 1,000 shilling note will buy you:
-5 avocados or
-a soda or
-a large pineapple or
-4 eggs or
-1 kg of tomatoes or
-4 text messages Uganda to UK
value is 52 US cents/34 UK pence

***************************************************

30,000 shillings will buy you:
-a steak, chips and veg meal for two as well as a bottle of beer each or
-3 bags of Muesli cereal or
-7 tins of John West (UK) tuna or
-a nice tshirt or
-4 500g cans of Quaker Oats porridge

value is $15.00/£9.00

Runyankole Language

2008-11-25T09:49:00.010+03:00

The language spoken in Ankole, the SW region of Uganda, is Runyankole/Runyankore. Resources are difficult to find and thus far aside from lessons on campus from the college nurse, we only have an old Peace Corps manual (Peace Corps is NOT generous with their manuals so I can't obtain a new one), a very small booklet I found in a bookshop, and the handout from VSO training.

I am compiling a manual which I will upload when complete. I made a recording of our tutor speaking the basic greetings and most common words used. The file is 2+mg.

Several people have emailed me after finding my blog and have asked for assistance in learning Runyankole. I was able to email one person the audio file, but no one else. I will however do so while in the US over the holidays since I'll have access to high speed internet. I also hope to complete the manual while there.

I have created a basic website which allows uploading of PDF files as well as audio. All files will be uploaded there as soon as complete. The url of the site will be posted as soon as this is done.

Wanted: Computer books

2008-11-17T21:33:00.002+03:00

I am tutoring introductory computers and am in urgent need of resources. Danny will be teaching IT next term since some used computers were recently donated. It's possible that the college will have an internet connection early next year as well.

The vast majority of staff and students have had little or no exposure to computers. All are very keen to learn! The computers all have Windows 98 installed so newer books are not desired. The computers have CD, floppy drives, and USB ports.

The most helpful books:

Basic books such as in the Dummies/Idiots series or any primary school level book.
MS Word
How to use the Internet.
Windows 98
CD-ROMs for learning computers
Learning to type programs
Mouse pads

Many copies are needed as there are about 500 staff and students here. We currently have about 20 computers.

I am requesting that some of you generous, good-hearted people donate and mail books, etc to:

Annie & Danny
c/o Bishop Stuart Core Primary Teacher's College
PO Box 152
Mbarara
Uganda

Thank you!!

Satellite TV!

2008-11-08T19:06:00.002+03:00

On the day before the presidential election the salespeople from GTV satellite tv came to our college trying to sell their packages. Danny happened to be around when they came and make a deal to have it installed the same day. I got to watch the election on MSNBC and other channels which thrilled me to no end!

We resisted getting satellite tv for a long time because it would add to the image of a rich mzungu. However, 3 other staff on the campus also bought it, so we don't stand out. Previously we had one local channel which showed a few hours of CNN International a few hours a day and usually had a very bad picture.

Ah, the primitive life of a volunteer.... no washing machine, no oven, no hot water...but we have satellite tv! We only get about 20 channels but four of them are news, four are sports, a movie channel, and even a channel which shows reruns of American tv shows like Friends.

Danny has been showing a movie to students on a big screen every weekend and they are all thrilled! All are shown with subtitles because they have a lot of difficulty with many accents.

President Obama!!

2008-11-05T19:02:00.003+03:00

The election is over and I am elated, thrilled, hopeful and optimistic! Today I am a very proud American. This joyous occasion was sweetened by phone calls from my son in Michigan followed by one from my dear (American) friend in Scotland.

President Barack Obama...............YES!!

Still here.....just too preoccupied to post!

2008-10-13T15:04:00.005+03:00

Nothing to do with Uganda, but.....

I have been faithfully following the campaigns for US President - more than any previous election - so I haven't been doing much writing for my blog. Fortunately, the electricity has been mostly consistent and the one tv station we get has been showing more hours of CNN International than previously. Although I cannot watch the debates I see the clips CNN chooses to show.

I am a member of a social network which is directed at the over 50's in the US but is gaining quite a lot of overseas members. http://www.eons.com/

Eons has many forums to discuss politics and it is, as expected, extremely busy with debates, discussions, and nasty, vile, and viscious arguments regarding the upcoming election. I search several online newspapers for campaign coverage as well. No need to say who I am voting for, however..........

http://signs.cafepress.com/item/that-one-yard-sign/315108756

One year ago tomorrow.......

2008-09-30T12:47:00.002+03:00

We landed at Entebbe Airport on 1 Oct 2007.

In some ways it seems a long time since we arrived, but mostly the time has flown by. 1 more year to go.

During the next year....

We hope to get funding for new computers, proper desks and chairs, and the internet for the college so we can give tutors, staff, and students a good basis for using computers and the internet. This is something I am looking forward to helping with.
Danny will continue teaching, of course.
I will finish the Runyankole language manual which I'll share with other volunteers or anyone else who desires to learn the language.
We will visit my family for christmas this year.
Two family visits here in Uganda next year.
Hope to have a year with less cases of food poisoning.
Hope to have another malaria-free year.
I will take a few thousand more photos.

More cultural differences....

2008-09-25T15:38:00.009+03:00

Ugandans find it hard to believe that not all westerners are rich. Their definition of rich is vastly different from ours. When I explained to someone that there are many very poor people in the US and UK they asked for a description of their living conditions. When asked if they had indoor plumbing and electricity, I replied 'yes'. I was then told that they are not poor.

Mud hut and pit toilet

Someone asked me about transportation in our countries and I told them most people have cars and there is also the option of buses and trains. It was assumed that we also had boda bodas (motorbike taxis) and there was surprise when I said we don't have those.

People are surprised when we inform them that many of the things we see on the roads here would cause the driver to be put in jail in our countries. Things such as completely filling the back of a pickup truck with people, or putting 4 passengers on a motorbike, or putting 25 people in a 15-seater mini-bus taxi, or filling a 5 passenger taxi with 1o people are what is normally seen here.

Except in the capitol and possibly a few other places, mortgages are not something one gets here. One of our neighbours is having a house built on some land he bought in town. He saves his money and when he has enough for the next phase of the house, he buys the materials needed and pays someone to construct it. Many people we know have built their homes with their own hands. It is common to make your own bricks! As for licensing of plumbers, electricians, construction workers to build these houses....not here, no way. People are amazed when we tell them to buy a house in our countries we get a mortgage and then pay for the house for the next 20 or 30 years.

Lady on a boda boda - motorbike taxi

Transfers of College Staff - Go or Quit your Job!

2008-09-24T11:46:00.005+03:00

The title of the head of a teaching college is principal. He (they are all men) has two deputy principals.

Every six years many of the principals and deputy principals of the teaching colleges may be transferred to another college, whether they like it or not. If there are vacancies to fill at other times they can be transferred then as well. All deputy principals and acting principals are called in to be interviewed in Kampala at the Ministry of Education for positions of principal. Some deputy principals are women and they go through the process as well even though they won't get the job. Hmmm....

Anyone who has reached these positions and salaries usually owns quite a large farm. The spouse normally lives on the farm with the family and may also have a local job. Children are usually in boarding schools. Most principals and deputy principals live in staff housing on a campus, unless they are lucky enough to be working near their home. Buying another house when one is transferred is not an option.

The problem with this? The family often lives hours away and the principal or deputy principal does not see their spouse and family often - once a month or more. If the husband and wife are both principal/deputy principal they will work at different colleges thus sometimes leaving the farm with no one there except field workers and a housegirl/boy.

The above is the same for tutors (lecturers) at the colleges. They make much less money though which means they can't travel to see their families as often.

Over the last couple of months this process has been taking place. Our principal and one of our deputy principals are being transferred. We are going to miss both of them very much but are happy that our next door neighbour, the other deputy principal, won't be leaving us.

This process for tutors will take place in a year.

Does the Ministry of Education not see that this process is bad for families???

Lake Mburo revisited

2008-09-21T08:16:00.006+03:00

Our fourth trip to Lake Mburo was experienced differently from the previous three.

First, we went alone without any other volunteers.

Second, we stayed in the bedded tents instead of a banda.

The bedded tents consist of 2 twin beds, are on a platform with a veranda, and have close access to a hot shower (when the fire is lit) and proper sit down, flushing toilets (!!). The price is higher than the bandas but still quite cheap - 40,000 shillings--about $25. We also liked the tents because they have screens with flaps which can be rolled up so we get more light and more night sounds.

Finally, we tried a place for breakfast which was recommended by another volunteer.

Instead of the restaurant by the lake we ate at the nearby Arcadia Cottages restaurant. For 10,000 shillings--about $6--we had a lovely full breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs of your choice, sausage, bacon, fried potatoes, fried tomato, beans, toast made with good bread and butter, and tea or coffee. This restaurant also has proper toilet facilities.

Pics have been posted here:
http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157607393324230/

On previous trips we had not ventured up to Lookout Point. We did so this time and the view from the top was simply stunning.

On being a 'celebrity'

2008-09-20T22:35:00.002+03:00

As I have mentioned previously, being a mzungu (white person) means being treated like a celebrity and being the centre of attention. When we socialise with Ugandans, especially if we visit their homes, I get the distinct impression that their status in the community increases.

Many people want to be our friend, or at least get our attention. Kids always wave at us and the adults will as well if we wave first. I especially love it when the young kids jump up and down and scream in excitement at seeing us. Their wee faces radiate joy at seeing us especially when we wave back or speak to them.

Danny and I attended a wedding reception today at which there were several hundred people. We were the only mzungus there and we were treated, not surprisingly, as celebrities. Most people wanted to greet us and shake our hands. They were so pleased that we attended a Ugandan wedding reception. The speakers who entertained the guests mentioned us at least a dozen times….we were referred to as guests of honour, a miracle, a blessing, as well as some friendly jokes about us. The entire reception was conducted in Runyankole so we only knew they were talking about us when we’d hear the word mzungu/bazungu and a sea of faces would turn around and look at us.

The village where the reception took place is rather remote and nowhere near a tourist destination so we were recipients of a great deal of attention due to the rarity of a white person in the area.

When I began to take a few photos of some of the kids I was suddenly swarmed by a couple of dozen of them all wanting their pics taken. They screamed in delight when I showed them their photos on the camera screen. Most, if not all, of these kids had likely never seen a white person before. I am sure that every child in the place waved, smiled or stared at us for quite some time.

Photo: thumbs up must be universal as it is also common in Uganda

US Election

2008-09-18T20:26:00.002+03:00

Here in Uganda it is difficult to get all the specific coverage of the US presidential election that I want. I am sure people in the US are probably overdosing on it, but I need more. We get CNN International for 2 - 3 hours per weekday. I will miss the debates as they are broadcast on the weekends.

BBC World Service provides quite a bit of coverage. But, alas, it's just the radio.

Our internet connection which is an MTN mobile phone USB modem had been extremely bad for the past month or so. Even when it connects the speed is much too slow to watch video clips.
I chat on internet forums and find out what the public thinks and their opinions on how the campaigning is progressing.

When Ugandans find out I am American they always ask me if I am voting for Obama. The reaction is always a big smile and thumbs up when I say yes.

Kibale Forest Chimps

2008-09-04T16:21:00.004+03:00

The college is currently on a term break so we've had plenty of time to travel. We have been bidding farewell to some of our favourite volunteers who are going back home...Fransje and Hilary in Bushenyi, and Barbara and Michael in Fort Portal. Plans have been made for future meetings when all of us are back in the UK/Europe.

Last week we spent a couple of nights at one of our favourites, Kingfisher Lodge, where we said farewell to Fransje who will soon be back in Holland. Then we headed to Fort Portal to spend a couple of delightful days with Barbara and Michael, a married couple who teach at a PTC and will soon be returning to England.

With a wee bit of prompting we decided to stay in Kibale Forest which is in the Fort Portal area. Our accommodation was the Primate Lodge Kibale which is a short walk from the meeting point for the chimp trek. The ambience, comfort, and service was superior. It was a pleasure to wake up to a symphony of birds or watch monkeys in the trees whilst resting on a comfy sofa on a veranda.

The chimp walk took nearly 4 hours to complete. Three groups consisting of 6 each were guided by a ranger and the rangers kept in touch via walkie talkie to increase the chances of all groups viewing the chimps. The walk was rough as we went off-trail and straight through the rainforest for the majority of the walk. The effort was worth it as we came upon a group of chimps after they had been spotted by one of the other groups. We could hear the chimps screeching loudly for some distance prior to our arrival because <<vegetarians: skip the following details>>
they had killed a monkey and were loudly 'discussing' which of the male chimps would be lucky enough to partake of fresh, raw monkey flesh.

The rules for walkers was to keep a distance of 8 metres between us and the chimps. It was very easy to watch them indulging in the meat-eating, plant-eating, or just lying or sitting around or swinging in the trees. With so many people trying to take photos, the ground being rough and uneven, and the chimps not understanding the need for them to 'be still' and pose without a tree leaf or branch in the way, the number of good pics I took was few. But we thoroughly enjoyed being close to the chimps and watching them in spite of the lack of good pics.

Photos are being uploaded here:
http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157607094665239/

Bikes and Bodas

2008-08-20T18:00:00.008+03:00

Bicycles and boda-bodas (motorbike taxis) seem to be the majority of the traffic here. Bodas are a nuisance and very dangerous. They drive between lanes of cars, drive on the wrong side of the road and pull in front of cars and trucks. Drivers rarely wear helmets and helmets are not provided for passengers. I have uploaded pics to my photo album of bodas and bikes carrying people and goods. I have yet to get a pic of 5 people (usually 2 of whom are babies or small children) on a boda but will keep trying.

Hauling matooke to market

http://www.flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157606330651974/

Irish Student Teachers

2008-08-06T18:19:00.000+03:00

For 6 weeks we’ve had 4 recent graduates from colleges in Dublin living on the campus and teaching in the local schools and at the college as well as painting and doing odd repairs at a school, etc. They raised and donated a great deal of money for the college and intend to raise more for the local schools. They made quite an impression on all of us and will be missed. This 6 week stay of graduates from Dublin occurs annually. If next years group are half as nice as this lot, we'll be very fortunate!

Photo is Mary, Elaine, Des and Anna.

Potholes from hell!!!

2008-08-04T17:17:00.003+03:00

On our trip to Kampala yesterday I calculated that if we were driving on a UK or US motorway or even a properly paved 2-lane road, the trip would take half the time. However, since driving on these roads is like manoeuvering on an obstacle course, it takes 5 hours instead of 2.5. It is also thoroughly tiring and stressful for the driver. Some of these potholes can be compared to Grand Canyon. Ok, not quite, but they are the biggest I have ever seen. And so numerous! I believe many of them are due to trucks which are overloaded. They are also made and repaired with low quality materials.

I have tried to take photos of these but the depth and overall size and frequency of them cannot be shown in a photograph.

Trips are unlike those in the UK or US. Rest stops or motorway stops? No such thing. Public restrooms? Not that you’d want to use. Fast food? Nope. Nice petrol stations filled with goodies to snack on? Well, to be fair they do have some things to eat or drink. And there are a couple of places to stop with decent food and proper toilets.

A local school

2008-08-04T17:03:00.005+03:00

On a recent visit to Bushenyi we paid a brief visit to one of the local schools as which a recent Bishop Stuart PTC graduate now teaches. A new wing is being built on the school.

Mobile phone companies – advertising

2008-08-04T16:41:00.004+03:00

All over Uganda there are buildings painted bright colours with the logos of mobile phone companies. Since landlines are rare outside the capitol of Kampala, most people own a mobile phone thus making competition between companies fierce.

In trading centres, towns, and villages many shops have been painted as advertising. Some buildings appear to be used as homes. Not sure how this is arranged – do the business/homeowners get a free paint job in order for the company to obtain advertising? I will have to ask. Anyway, amongst all the dull, brown buildings there are the following very bright colours which cannot be ignored:
Warid – White with red and a dash of blue
Zain – Hot pink (formerly Celtel)
Uganda Telecom – bright blue
MTN – bright yellow
Celtel – Red, yellow and white (now Zain)

Visiting a Ugandan home

2008-08-04T16:11:00.007+03:00

A couple of weeks ago we visited the farm of one of our college drivers. Tugume lives on the campus but visits his home which is about 1.5 hours away by car as often as he can. Not owning his own car, as most Ugandans don't, he must travel by public transport which makes the journey very long.

Tugume is a former school teacher and is very intelligent, has an excellent command of English, and is very interesting to listen to. He is also one of the nicest and most helpful people we've met.

We were warmly welcomed at Tugume's home by his wife, several of his children and some grandchildren. His farm has a very large garden with many matooke trees, some cows, chickens, and other crops. As is typical in Uganda, guests are given an extra special meal - definitely not the typical meal a Ugandan family would eat. This meal was superb! The family was so welcoming and happy we visited. Their English was excellent and it was obvious that education is extremely important in the family. The eldest son is soon to graduate from a university. I had a chat with a teenage daughter, Rose, who said she loved to read (unusual for a Ugandan to read for pleasure). She said she liked novels and also Shakespeare. Impressive! I have loaned her some of my books and am keeping an eye out for more.

Grandson

Daughter Rose

Local hospital tour - depressing!

2008-07-30T19:21:00.001+03:00

One of our friends is a volunteer who works as a physician and professor at the local hospital and university. Danny and I visited the hospital for the first time today and it was difficult not to cry.

I expected the hospital to be of extremely low standards compared to western hospitals but what I saw shocked me. Tragically there are many, many hospitals in Uganda and all over Africa which would make this hospital look modern in comparison. We discovered:

There are often 3 or 4 babies/toddlers in one bed.
The neo-natal ward (which was recently set up by the volunteer) has no incubators but is a small room with heaters. The nurses refuse to work in there so all care is provided by the mothers, attendants and the doctors.
Babies are dying all the time.
There aren't nearly enough nurses so most of the care is given by family members. They bring mattresses to sleep outdoors on the hospital grounds. They also bring basins for doing the laundry and lay them on the grass or fences to dry.
Meals are not provided, therefore, the family of the patient brings food and cooking utensils to prepare their meals.
Families are being taught about nutrition because most children are suffering from malnutrition - not because of lack of good food but because of ignorance about nutrition and the importance of continuing breast-feeding.
Usually there are no drugs/anaesthesia available at the hospital so the patient's family is sent with a prescription into the town to purchase them from the pharmacy.
Severe lack of equipment
More than half of the patients admitted are children and a large percentage of those are babies.
The paediatric ward has mosquito nets but many of the beds have none and there are no screens on the windows (which are often broken). Therefore, patients contract malaria easily.

Grim, very grim.

Not all hospitals are like this one – some are worse, some are better. The International Hospital of Kampala is a very good, modern and clean hospital. All VSO volunteers are sent there for care if the problem is not minor enough to be treated adequately locally.

When volunteers, staff or college students are ill we are taken to the private hospital in town. It is more expensive but far superior care.

VSO Cluster Groups & Weekend Trip

2008-07-23T13:03:00.005+03:00

The VSO arranges geographical cluster groups - the purpose of these is mainly for support for/from other volunteers. Our group consists of Mbarara, Bushenyi, and Isingiro (no one there now). The groups also do projects and are given a small amount of money from VSO or other sources to fund these. Projects have included holding workshops for teachers/teacher trainers on alternatives to corporal punishment in schools. The current project is educating the public on preventing malnutrition.

Our group has meetings every 5 or 6 weeks. This past weekend we had our meeting in Bushenyi, spent the night there, then proceeded the next morning to Kalinzu Forest Reserve for a walk through a rainforest. There are at least 4 species of monkeys there and we saw many. There were 12 people in our group and included one of our favourite couples who joined us from Fort Portal.

http://www.nfa.org.ug/

After our walk we all drove a short distance to Kingfisher Lodge for lunch. Danny and I have been there twice and we chose to spend Sunday night there in one of the lovely bandas which overlook the Rift Valley.

Another trip to Lake Mburo

2008-07-12T13:16:00.005+03:00

I guess we enjoy the place... Danny and I took our third trip to Mburo along with 4 other volunteers.

Pics are here:

http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157606032049781/

Daily Life in Kibingo

2008-07-11T18:17:00.013+03:00

.....an updated summary of our day-to-day life here for future volunteers or anyone else who may be curious.
Since we are spoiled rotten mzungus our life here does not reflect that of the typical Ugandan, most certainly not in this or any area outside of Kampala. Kampala is a very modern city with all the conveniences of any big city, but it is also surrounded by slums.

Our college is located near Mbarara, the second largest town in Uganda after the capitol of Kampala. We are 17kms away from the town and our area is called Kibingo (Chi-bingo).

Campus

Hill behind our house

The campus

All volunteers do not have the same type of accommodation we have. Some have much more modern, and others have no electricity, no running water and limited access to transportation. Therefore, the description of our lifestyle in no way typifies the life of every volunteer here.

Our accommodation is in semi-detached staff housing on the college campus which is in the countryside. There are large hills surrounding the campus which is 3 km off the main road on a dirt track which has more potholes than road. Matooke trees are absolutely everywhere.

The house has a tiny living room, tiny kitchen, 2 bedrooms – 1 fairly large, 1 small, bathroom, shower room, front and back porch. There is also a building behind the house which houses a ‘kitchen’ – a large empty concrete room – everyone else on campus uses their outdoor kitchens for cooking with charcoal or wood. We use this room for storage and gardening tools. There is also a long-drop (toilet) located behind the kitchen which we don’t use.

Pics of our house:

http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157603269365364/

Electricity:
We had a long period of only having power in the evenings, but currently we have power nearly 24 hours a day.

Water:
The majority of the time we have running water indoors, however, sometimes the pump for the well doesn’t work or hasn’t been switched on. The well supplies the campus and the many nearby villagers who fill up their jerry cans with water from the campus.

We don’t have hot water unless we boil it so showers are cold but there are the options of using the camping shower by sitting it in the sun filled with water, or using heated water to wash with using a large basin and jug. We have an indoor flushing toilet for which I am very, very grateful.

All water must be boiled before drinking, even if staying in a nice hotel.

Laundry:
Laundry is done by hand. I have a hose which I hook up through the window to the shower room faucet and fill 3 very large basins on our back porch. I now use a washboard I recently purchased on a trip the US. Detergents here are quite harsh and rough on clothing, but a milder detergent would result in dirty clothes. Laundry is hung on the clothesline to dry and on a breezy, sunny day can dry in less than an hour. Clothes need to be hung inside out to prevent too much fading.

All items must be ironed, even towels, socks, underwear and sheets due to the possibility of mango flies laying eggs on them and becoming embedded in our skin when the item is worn or used. We have an electric iron although the majority of Ugandans use a charcoal iron. I don’t mind ironing as I enjoy listening to audiobooks during this task.

Rubbish:
We have to burn or bury all our rubbish and compost all food scraps.

Grass:
…..has to be cut with a slasher – a long-handled blade which you swing back and forth, a bit like a golf club except in both directions. I look on this activity as exercise, otherwise I’d pay someone to do it.

Garden:
Danny is growing cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, herbs, butternut squash, pumpkin, onions, watermelon, pineapple, and a variety of other veg and fruit.

Shopping:
We can get much of what we need in Mbarara. Fresh fruit and veg are very cheap. On any trip to Kampala I always bring an extensive list for shopping for the items we can’t get here or are significantly cheaper, or of better quality, or can be bought in bulk.

Appliances/luxury:
4 WD car (purchased after 5 months here)
Small TV but no satellite so viewing choices are very limited
Toaster (after we tired of frying the bread in a pan)
Electric kettle
Electric iron
Short wave radio for BBC World Service
Laptop – with mobile phone modem for excruciatingly slow internet
Refrigerator (the only one on campus)
2 burner gas cooker – no oven
Fan

Mosquitoes:
The anopheles and other types of mosquitoes are plentiful here, except during the dry season. The anopheles can be the source of malaria. All volunteers take an anti-malarial pill. We also use a mosquito net on the bed which we keep tucked in all the time. Our windows don’t have any screens so we shut the windows before dusk and open them well after dawn. This doesn’t totally prevent them from getting into the house though.

Climate:
Temps in our area of Uganda vary from an occasional nighttime low of 55F/12C to a daytime high of 85F/30C. There are dry and rainy seasons, but otherwise weather is about the same all year. The humidity is very low so we never have that sticky, muggy feeling. Most of the time it feels quite pleasant and we enjoy wearing short sleeves, shorts or capris, sandals or just barefoot.
Food:
Free lunches are provided at the college for staff and volunteers. It doesn’t vary much – rice, beans, matooke, sometimes posho, cabbage and occasionally doodo – a type of spinach. This is a very high carb meal and although Danny will eat it 5 days a week, I choose to eat it 2-3 times a week.

We have no trouble eating what we like in the evenings – soup, curry or stir-fry made mainly with veg from our garden. Also in our diet – eggs, avocado, pineapple, watermelon, porridge, bread, pasta, occasional cheese, tuna, peanut butter. And then, of course, on weekends it might be steak and chips, burger, Indian, pasta, Ugandan beer or imported Heineken, or South African wine.

Foods we miss:
Danny misses McEwans beer
We both miss tofu and Quorn for our curry
I miss haddock and chips (well, we can get good chips here, but not haddock)
Scones
Bacon rolls
Good bread

Work:
Danny teaches physics or general science one or two days a week and spends a couple of days doing lesson planning. He has fixed and networked the old computers in the college computer room and is trying to find funding for new computers and an internet connection. All computer-related repairs or problems are directed to him

I am often asked how I am able to fill my time here and people seem to be worried I’ll be bored and want to leave. This is not a problem.

I sometimes do typing for staff and the principal and have tutored on beginning computer skills.

I attend private language tutoring (from the college nurse), and am working on a language manual for any current or future volunteer in the area where Runyankole is spoken. Resources for learning this language are nearly non-existent.

Of course, I can always fill my time by doing laundry, ironing, sweeping all the dirt which never goes away, mopping, doing dishes, cleaning, cleaning…..

Then there is reading, writing my blog, the internet, taking pics and learning how to take better ones.

Ugandans:
Are sooooo very friendly. The children always wave at us when we drive or walk past, and the adults will as well if we wave or speak first. We know quite a bit of the local language and all the greetings, so we get a very happy reception.

Entertainment:
We have DVD’s, music, books, the internet. Movies can now be watched on a big screen with a projector hooked to a laptop. The TV is generally on only during the day, but occasionally we watch Ugandan news at night. During the day we get CNN International, but can also keep up with the news on the radio with BBC World Service or on the internet..

In the town of Mbarara there are three restaurants we frequent which serve Western and African food –
Agip: http://www.agipmotelmbarara.com/
Hotel Classic: http://www.hotelclassicafrica.com/
Lakeview: http://www.hotelsinuganda.com/lakeviewregency.html
http://www.africapoint.com/HOTELS/hotel.asp?hotelid=367

We like the Agip for the food (especially the steak and chips), Hotel Classic has good food but what we enjoy most is sitting on the balcony watching the town go by. We like Lakeview for its Sunday buffets which have a mix of African and a few Western foods. This has become our new Sunday routine – swimming pool and buffet. Occasionally we treat ourselves by spending the night there or elsewhere.

Tourism:
Thus far we have been to Lake Mburo National Park, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Fort Portal/Kibale Forest, Lake Bunyoni, and many trips to Kampala. Future trips are return trips to all of the above, Murchison Falls Nat’l Park, possibly Rwanda, Bwindi Nat’l Park.

Our photo album:
http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/collections/72157602736722927/

A few pics

2008-07-02T11:54:00.008+03:00

Local pharmacy for every creature, Post Office coach, a couple of houses on our way to town.

The long dry season

2008-06-30T15:28:00.002+03:00

June-August is the longest dry season of the year. It hasn't rained at all for about 3 weeks, and then it was just a short shower. It's possible it might not rain again until well into August.

This makes it difficult for the crops and cattle. To compound the problems the April-May rainy season was very dry this year. We water our garden during this time, but most others can't.

A benefit of the dry season is that the number of mosquitoes drops substantially. It also makes off-road wildlife tracking much easier as the tracks will be dry and not muddy when there is a risk of becoming stuck.

A group of us will be visiting Lake Mburo this coming weekend. For Danny and I it will be our third visit. It will be the 4th of July and I'll be the only American there but I'm sure the others will help me celebrate - even one of the English who said 'it's a celebration of getting rid of the Yanks!'.

Everyone thinks Uganda must be boiling hot because it's on the equator. But due to the high elevation it isn't. The sun can sometimes feel very strong even when the temperature is only in the 70's or low 80's (20's C). Out of the sun it doesn't feel hot. The humidity is quite low here which makes a difference. It isn't very often that we feel too hot, and then it's only because we are out walking in the sun for a long period - such as going to the shops and markets.

Yeah! Can order from Amazon!

2008-06-26T20:05:00.002+03:00

Don't know why I didn't check before, but last week I wondered if I could order from Amazon.co.uk and have it delivered here. I was surprised to find that I could - it couldn't be a used book from the Marketplace sellers, but I can order new books - or other items.

So I ordered a book and it arrived after just one week. Of course the shipping fee is triple, but I don't care!

Technology in the classroom

2008-06-25T10:07:00.001+03:00

On our recent trip to the US we purchased a projector. Its primary purpose is to enable Danny to give better presentations to his classes. All the tutors here use flip chart paper to teach.

Danny has been planning his lessons on his laptop using PowerPoint which can include photos, animations, sound, music, even movie clips. This is hooked up to the projector and shown on a large screen which the college owns but doesn't use. The students have never been exposed to anything like this and they love it.

As these students are training to be teachers this also shows them the possibilities for teaching in the future.

The projector also serves the purpose of showing movies in our house. Our living room is tiny so with the projector and the screen it gets very crowded, especially if we have a guest or two. It's like sitting in the front row of the cinema.

When we find bigger and better speakers we will begin to show movies to the students in the assembly hall.

Cultural Differences

2008-06-16T14:56:00.005+03:00

Even after nearly 9 months in Uganda I am still astounded by the differences in our cultures. It still stops me in my tracks when someone asks a question or makes a comment that I don't know how to explain. A few of these are:

Why do you read books if you are not studying? This is not a book culture so it is difficult for most Ugandans to understand that people read for pleasure or to gain knowledge that isn't required for work or school.
What was the 'bride price' given for your (Danny's) daughter when she married? Generally in Uganda (outside the capitol) it is a number of cows given to the bride's family by the groom's.
Explaining what the christmas holidays are like in the US and UK, especially all the lights and decorations.
The fact that not all Western households have a maid (housegirl). There was a surprised reaction when I told someone that nearly all households, even poor ones, have a washer and dryer and that many have dishwashers. The housegirls here live in the house with the family and their meals are provided. But they work 7 days a week doing all types of work - washing clothes (by hand); ironing everything with a charcoal iron; cooking by charcoal or wood; gardening including digging, planting, harvesting and bending over pulling weeds for long hours; chopping wood; slashing the grass; sweeping; taking care of the children; etc. In our area the typical pay for a housegirl is 20,000 shs a month, the equivalent of $12. As spoiled mzungus we spend more than this on our Sunday lunch buffet at the hotel near town.
Trying to explain that other countries have 4 distinct seasons. Uganda is the same all year round except for more rain at certain times.
I told someone that Danny does the cooking because he enjoys it and is a better cook than I. I do the cleaning up. I was informed that it would be a source of shame for a Ugandan woman if she did not do all the cooking.
Attempting to explain a wireless network. I am able to sit in our house and print to the college computer room printer. A staff member I had typed something for was gobsmacked by this.
Explaining that I was listening to audiobooks on my Ipod.

Broccoli

2008-06-08T12:36:00.001+03:00

Since returning from the US, we have had a couple of meals that - except for the rice - came completely from our garden. We ate eggplant, onions, herbs, broccoli, and couple of other things. I cannot take any credit as Danny is the gardener. I have never seen broccoli sold in Uganda - the seeds came from the UK. Here is one of our broccoli plants....

You are fat. Gee, thanks!

2008-06-08T09:02:00.001+03:00

From what I have observed, most Ugandans believe that being plump or fat is attractive and a sign of prosperity. Being told one is fat is intended as a compliment, and most certainly not as an insult.

Last week it was mentioned to me that I had become fatter during my visit to America. Hmmm... As my background is American and British culture, I find it difficult to take this as a compliment.....very difficult. Of course, I cannot reveal that this is something I would rather not hear.

Other volunteers have had similar experiences. Recently one shared her experience of being complimented on getting fatter during the last couple of months, and that she'll continue to get bigger.

http://www.sirc.org/publik/mirror.html
In a study of British and Ugandan students' evaluation of body-shapes, the Ugandans rated an 'obese' female figure much more attractive than the British ......

http://bmj.bmjjournals.com/cgi/content/full/333/7570/672-c?rss=1
Doctors and government officials in Uganda are becoming increasingly concerned at the country’s growing incidence of diabetes, which they attribute to changes in lifestyle and rising obesity. The number of people with diabetes is now thought to have passed a million, in a population of 28 million.

Return from America

2008-06-01T17:47:00.002+03:00

Danny and I had a pleasant and memorable time visiting my family. I took loads of photos while visiting, including about a thousand of my granddaughter! We are now settling back into our house in Uganda after spending a few days at our favourite hotel in Kampala. Unpacking is nearly finished and somehow a huge pile of laundry has accumulated. We have already booked our flights to the US for Christmas. Big thumbs up for Emirates Airlines as always!

This was our first trip out of Uganda since coming here 8 months ago and I wondered how it would feel to return after spending 3 weeks in the US. It is incredibly easy to become used to being spoiled there. I waver between wanting to be with family in the US, at home in Scotland or in Uganda.

While walking through Dubai Airport for the final leg of our flight we heard a flight to Glasgow being called. I got a lump in my throat and for a fleeting moment wanted to jump on that flight and go home. Homesickness comes and goes but I always remind myself how much I’d regret not finishing our placement here. The people and the weather are easy to become attached to. The landscape, the wildlife, the culture are things I enjoy as well.

On our drive back to Mbarara from Kampala we complained about all the potholes but we also enjoyed the renewal of our ‘celebrity’ status. A major thing I will miss when we go back home is the children always smiling and waving at us. One boy alongside the road smiled, waved and gave us two thumbs up. That did it for me. I was happy to be back.

While in the US I bought a washboard. Apparently there is only one company left in the US, which makes washboards. A couple of relatives pointed out that this company had recently been a feature on the news. Most of the washboards are used as musical instruments but many have been sent to soldiers in Iraq and other places where hand washing is done. I ordered one to bring back with us and have tried it out today. It is especially good for washing socks and washrags, so I am a satisfied customer of The Columbus Washboard Company in Logan, Ohio. http://www.columbuswashboard.com/

Since our visit was in May my family spent a good deal of their time at work or in school during our visit. So Danny and I did some exploring on our own. I’ve always liked Ann Arbor but didn’t realize what an interesting and pretty town it was until now. Since our visits have been in winter or autumn I hadn’t seen Michigan in spring in about 18 years—the last time I lived there. Lovely.

Highlights of our trip (aside from seeing all the family…wedding, memorial, etc etc etc):
-The town of Chelsea (pics are in my album) http://www.chelsea-mi.com/
-Civil War re-enactment at Greenfield Village http://www.hfmgv.org/village/index.aspx
-Tour of the Ford Rouge plant (linked to Greenfield Village)
-The refurbished Detroit Museum of Art http://www.dia.org/
-Frankenmuth http://www.frankenmuth.org/
-Great food!!!
-Getting to drink (clean, cold) water out of drinking fountains
-Hot showers, washer and dryer, no mozzie net at night, no mozzies!
-Shopping! Especially Best Buy, Borders, malls, etc……

Back to the present. The students return to the college tomorrow and classes resume later this week. Danny will be teaching and since the electricity has been reliable for well over a month we expect IT classes to resume. I will attend the classes to help students learn the basics beginning with Word.

Visiting America

2008-05-19T22:43:00.001+03:00

Danny and I have been in the US since May 6th visiting my family. Both of us were missing the change of seasons and experiencing spring has been enjoyable although it has been much cooler than normal. I haven't been to Michigan in springtime in 18 years and had forgotten how pleasant it is with flowers and trees blooming.

My youngest son got married over the weekend and it was a lovely, small wedding. My only grandchild, an adorable girl, is growing up much too fast. She will be 3 years old in less than 2 months.

We have quickly become used to modern conveniences again like a washer and dryer, hot showers, clean water out of taps and drinking fountains, easy access to shops which contain anything one could possibly want, etc. Wondering how it feel to readjust after 3+ weeks.

Lake Mburo revisited

2008-05-01T12:21:00.011+03:00

Last weekend we made another trip to Lake Mburo. One of the departing volunteers, Nikki, had never been there so we booked another visit. We were joined by another volunteer, Hilary.

There were a couple of events different from our first visit which is why I am posting about a trip to a park we have already visited.

While having pre-dinner refreshment one evening, two hippos wandered around the grounds next to the lakeside restaurant. It is unusual for hippos to come out of the water when the sun is still shining. A ranger was called as hippos pose a potential life-threatening danger to visitors. He informed us that the multitude of scratches over one of the hippos indicated that it had been in a serious fight. It left the lake because the wounds were not as painful whilst out of the water. We do not know why the other hippo had accompanied it. The hippos then went back into the water and the injured one was going to die.

As we walked past the warthogs which always frequent the grounds around the restaurant, one of our party got a bit too close while taking photographs. One warthog showed it was very annoyed by this and scared us all quite a bit. Warthogs, when they feel threatened, can also cause serious injury or death.

Monkeys ran around the restaurant during a couple of our meals which we found quite entertaining.

On our way out of the park at the end of the visit we decided to take one of the roads to a different park exit. This was not a main road but one of the well-maintained tracks. We evidently took a wrong turn somewhere and found ourselves on a muddy off-road track; the type the rangers take you on for a game drive. We only had the sun to tell us what direction we were going in. Danny's driving skills and the 4 wheel drive on our vehicle saved us from getting stuck on unmaintained tracks. At one point we passed a large herd of water buffalo in a pond. We had stopped the car to figure out which way to go and the buffalo began watching us, then walking towards us. It appeared to be all females except the leader; a huge bull. The bull began chasing the car and we sped away! Yikes!

We have been in Kampala the last few days to prepare for a flight to the US on Sunday to visit with my family, attend a memorial service for my dad, and to celebrate at my son's wedding.

QE National Park Weekend

2008-04-23T07:25:00.008+03:00

Busy weekend! We spent Friday night in Bushenyi so we could have a send-off for two departing volunteers – Nikki and Shane. They will be missed! We set off for Kingfisher Lodge in Kichwamba on Saturday morning. Our 8th wedding anniversary was Thursday, April 17th and we decided to spoil ourselves.

Kingfisher Lodge:
http://www.dostudios.de/kingfishersafaris.net/news_en.html

Our room was simply but interestingly decorated with a private balcony overlooking the Rift Valley.

The Lodge is set in spectacular scenery. Our banda, outdoor dining, and the swimming pool overlooked the Rift Valley. Service and meals were wonderful.

Sunday morning we departed for Mweya Lodge which is located in Queen Elizabeth National Park. On the drive to the lodge from the main road we were thrilled to spot a leopard sitting in the high grass—a rare occurrence. After a gorgeous lunch of fish (Tilapia) and chips we arranged the mid-afternoon boat trip through the Kazinga Channel which connects Lake Edward and Lake George. Due to the downpour that morning there weren’t any elephants drinking from the lake. However, we did see hippos, water buffalo, and various birds.
http://www.mweyalodge.com/

On Monday morning we arose at 5.30 to prepare for a 6.30 game drive with a ranger guide in our own vehicle. Spotted were an injured female lion, water buffalo, Ugandan Kobs, warthogs, waterbucks, monkeys, and mongoose. Our guide spotted a large herd of Kob demonstrating the behaviour or animals on alert for a dangerous animal. They were all fixated on a tree surrounded by shrub and their tails wagged furiously. A leopard was in the tree. We only got a quick glimpse of it as it leaped down into the shrub. On the way back from the lodge we saw a herd of elephants—a great photo op!

The scenery in the park is magnificent. Queen Elizabeth National Park is adjacent to the Rwenzori Mountains National Park which creates a stunning backdrop to the savannah, Euphorbia trees and brush.
http://www.uwa.or.ug/queen.html

http://www.game-reserve.com/uganda_queen_elizabeth.html

The lodge attracts European and American tourists and has steep prices. Our double room was US $255 for full board (all 3 meals). Our room was very nice—clean, had a room-sized mosquito net so we didn’t have to struggle with tucking a net under the mattress, and nicely decorated with a view over the lake from our back porch. But I expected a more posh room for the price we paid. The service was 1st class during our stay. From the bar, restaurant, pool, decks, porches and guestrooms one can observe elephants, hippos, and water buffalo as they drink from Lake Edward.

Link to many pics of our trip (still being uploaded):http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157604670794975/

Lake Mburo National Park

2008-04-08T10:03:00.009+03:00

Danny and I, along with Sofie the other volunteer on our campus, spent the past weekend at Lake Mburo which is quite close to us – about 60 or 70km. There are seven lakes in the park, savannah, and mountains and hills. Lovely.

The park does not get crowds of visitors like other national parks because it doesn’t have the ‘Big 5’, or chimps or gorillas like other parks. It is, however, the only national park in Uganda that has zebra and impala. Between 4-6,000 zebras roam the park.

Accommodation is basic or luxury—nothing in between. Since we took our chances and arrived without reservations we spent Saturday night in basic, tiny, and clean rooms. There were no private toilets or showers but were in buildings close by—however, in the middle of the night it seemed miles away! Sunday night was spent in a banda which was in a good location close to park headquarters and the restaurant.

Warthogs were everywhere. I must say they have a face only a mother could love! They liked to eat the grass near the restaurant and we had to walk past them to visit the ‘long drop’. They paid no attention to us.

Sunday morning we took a boat ride on Lake Mburo to look for hippos and crocodiles. Our boat spotted one baby crocodile on a branch near the water and a large crocodile in the distance. Hippos are easily seen near the lakeside restaurant. We also took a game drive in the evening with a ranger in our own vehicle. This was fantastic as we took back trails (good thing we bought a 4 x 4!) and saw hundreds of animals. Danny stopped the car in front of a water buffalo and baby which displeased the mama. The ranger told him to go forward quickly—it could charge us when it feels threatened.

In the evening after dinner when it was pitch black we took a detour to attempt to spot hippos coming out of the lake. We surprised one crossing the road—a huge, wet, lumbering animal. For a moment we feared it would charge us as it was frightened and looked panicky as it hunted for the familiar trail to the water.

On Monday morning we arose before sunrise for a 6.30 am walk with an armed park ranger. Walks are not allowed in the park without being accompanied by an armed guide—just in case. We were looking for hyenas but didn’t spot any. Zebras, monkeys, impalas and a variety of similar animals were spotted and our group got quite close to many of them. We love how graceful the impalas, etc run and leap.

Great trip…we will return.

Photos are being uploaded to this album: http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157604433975130/

Links:

http://www.uwa.or.ug/mburo.html

http://www.traveluganda.co.ug/lakemburo.asp

Danny's Garden

2008-03-31T10:06:00.006+03:00

Danny is growing: cabbage, garlic, peppers, onions, various herbs, watermelon, courgettes/zucchini, tomatoes, aubergines/eggplant, doodo (like spinach), pineapple, broccoli, cauliflower.

A cameleon sits on one of our bushes.

6 months ago today......

2008-03-31T09:47:00.003+03:00

6 months ago today…..

…we left the UK to come to Uganda. Time flies, eh?

‘Stuff’

Early on another volunteer shared with me her opinion that in order to fully experience life in Uganda as a volunteer that one need not be deprived of all modern conveniences. At the time I disagreed. My impression was that to fully appreciate our spoiled western lifestyles that living simply and doing things the hard way was mandatory.

I no longer believe that 100%. We certainly do not have all the conveniences we have at home, but we do not live nearly as simply as most people. In our home we have slowly gathered more and more ‘stuff’. Modern conveniences we have purchased here: 4WD car(!), toaster, electric kettle, 2 burner gas range/cooker, TV (no satellite or cable), electric iron (as opposed to charcoal iron), refrigerator, mobile internet. These are in addition to the electrical and electronic items we brought with us.

I would not say we are living in luxury. The laundry is done by hand, the grass is cut by a slasher, we have to boil and filter our drinking water, we have no hot running water, we still have limited electricity and occasionally the water runs out. But compared to many here we are living a luxurious lifestyle. We have made ourselves comfortable and barring unforeseen disasters we will stay put for another year and a half.

Other Volunteers

We are fortunate in that our housing is acceptable, the location is safe and pleasant, the staff are all fantastic and Danny is happy with his job.

However, there are quite a few volunteers who are not happy. A volunteer mentioned to me the other day that my blog is very positive and it may give the impression that all volunteers are content. This is definitely not the case. Several we know personally are leaving their placements early. Some have primitive accommodation which is below the minimum standard for volunteers. Some are unhappy with their jobs and feel unwanted and under-used by their employers. It saddens us that several people we know are leaving early as we will miss their companionship.

Spending time with other volunteers is mandatory for a successful placement. As much as we enjoy the company of Ugandans it is necessary to spend time with those of similar backgrounds who are in the same situation.

New Volunteers

As I mentioned we now have another VSO volunteer on our campus. She is Dutch and teaches maths. Recently a new VSO volunteer arrived in Mbarara from the UK. He is a doctor and is originally from India. Since he lives in town in university/hospital housing we only see him on Saturdays for shopping and lunch.

A new Peace Corps volunteer arrived last week and will spend most of her time in a village outside of Mbarara, but will occasionally teach on our campus.

Next post.....language lessons, our vegetable garden and some pics.

We bought a car!

2008-03-13T07:57:00.001+03:00

We have been feeling dependant and a bit trapped when it comes to transport and with expensive or inconvenient choices. The motorbike is only good for short trips and not good at all for weekly shopping. There are also many places in Uganda we want to visit, and renting a car or hiring a private taxi are quite expensive.

Soooo.....we have bought a car.....a re-conditioned SUV which is fantastic on the huge potholes here. Got a good price - many millions (...in UG shillings). The head of the college did the
bargaining because when a dealer knows it is for a mzungu, the price rises dramatically.

We are here for another 1.5 years so after discussing and calculating for months, Danny and I decided to do it--might as well make the most of it. The common opinion is that we will be able to the sell the car when we leave for nearly what we paid for it.

A couple of pics....

2008-02-27T12:16:00.007+03:00

Sean the sheep was enjoying a sunny day on the lake, blissfully unaware that he was headed to the market and someone's dinner table later this evening.

(Actually the sheep is an old pal - he graced the dashboard of my wee car in Scotland for about 6 years. The boat is one that I purchased here in Uganda.)

New furniture: yea, I know the design and colour aren't very appealing, but comfort comes first here! Still awaiting the bookcase which is being custom-built for us. It will go where the TV is now.

More about mozzies (skeeters)

2008-02-27T12:12:00.000+03:00

Thanks for the tips on my previous post, however, I need to expand on the situation with mozzies here:

Mosquitoes are active between dusk and dawn, although they can be spotted during the day. They don’t bother Danny but are a nuisance to me between 7pm and bedtime.

I generally stay covered in trousers, long sleeves and socks during the evenings, but they usually find a way to bite me—up my sleeves, through my socks, up my trouser legs. I am a mozzie magnet and always have been.

Sometimes I apply Deet – the only effective protection against them. But I really don’t want to use it daily. I am guilty of scratching until I bleed and have many battle scars on my legs, feet and arms. Benadryl antihistamine cream sometimes stops the itching if I apply it as soon as I’m bitten, but it is much less effective against Ugandan mozzies than it is against Scottish midges. Wary of infections from my scratches I keep lots of Dettol or Savlon on hand to wash my injuries.

There are nooks and crannies in the house where they hide during the day and become active at night. They also get into the house through ill-fitting doors and windows.

One reason the mozzies are so bad on our campus is due to its location. It’s out in the countryside where the population is sparse. Most of the people who live in the villages don’t have electricity. So in the midst of darkness, our campus burns like a beacon for mozzies for miles around.

We faithfully take Mefloquine, an anti-malarial drug. We also sleep under a Permethrin-coated mozzie net at night. However, if we do happen to get bitten by an anopheles mosquito which is carrying malaria, we will likely feel like we’ve got the flu for about a week--if we get malaraia at all. It is rare for people taking Mefloquine to get malaria..

When we are going to gone from the house for a few hours we spray with DOOM, an insecticide. The amount of mosquitoes seems to be less for a day or two, but that is all.

Only solution: mosquito electrocutors!

Getting comfortable and other things....

2008-02-23T10:46:00.002+03:00

After nearly 5 months we now feel quite comfortable and at home in our house here. Last week we purchased a living room suite – 2 big chairs and a sofa and they are very comfortable. These replace the two horrible chairs which were never really comfortable. A sturdy coffee table was purchased with the suite. We are also having a bookcase built for us. So my long list of items to buy has nearly become cleared.

The vegetables and fruits Danny planted are doing extremely well – they seem to grow before your eyes.

We have resumed language lessons and I love the reaction I get from people when I demonstrate that I know more than a few greetings.

The end of next week we are getting another VSO on our campus! At the present time we are the only ones on campus.

The students have just returned this week after the long holiday. Danny is teaching physics and the students love his teaching style. He lightens up the subject by making jokes and you can hear them roaring with laughter all over campus.

Occasionally it hits me how pleasant the weather is here and how I have taken it for granted. Yesterday afternoon I was sitting in one of our new comfortable chairs in a skirt and tank top with my bare feet propped up on the coffee table. As usual all the windows and the front and kitchen doors were open, it was sunny and there was a very nice breeze blowing. Ahhhhh…….

Now if we’d just get the electricity back during the day!!!

Annual VSO Conference - Entebbe

2008-02-23T10:36:00.004+03:00

Note: I've been nearly incommunicado recently due to our internet connection being @#!&%#!!

The annual VSO conference was held in Entebbe February 15-17. Danny and I and a few other volunteers arrived on the 14th and returned home on the 18th. Kampala is fantastic for shopping--you can purchase most things that you will find in Western malls.

The conference hotel was the Imperial Botanical Beach Hotel http://www.imperialhotels.co.ug/impbotbeach_overview.htm
which was posh and comfortable, although we noticed a few things that needed upgrading or repairs. The staff was incredibly friendly and helpful. The location was on Lake Victoria next to the Botanical Gardens and zoo. The hotel had a swimming pool, sauna, bars, gardens, and lots of Vervet Monkeys roaming the grounds. Unfortunately, I did not get any pics of the monkeys.

Food and non-alcoholic drinks were provided and the buffets were really quite good. Some of the prices were quite steep - the normal 3,000 shs for a beer at the outdoor bar and 4,000 at the indoor bar which had DSTV and large, flatscreen tv. After one of our meals I asked for another bottle of water - 1/2 litre - and was told that the second drink could be purchased for 2,000 shs! Emmm.... no.

The double room we had normally costs $170 per night. Of course they were discounted for the conference and paid for by VSO. Clinton stayed in this hotel while he was president. The Clinton Suite costs over $500 per night.

We enjoyed meeting volunteers from all over Uganda -many of whom we'd never met. I believe the current number of VSO volunteers in Uganda is 60. I even met someone who is from Michigan, where I'm originally from. She joined through VSO Canada.

Mozzies

2008-02-10T09:10:00.001+03:00

WHY?

WHY???

WHY didn't we bring mozzie executioners with us???

Note to self: list of items to purchase in the US when we visit in May:

1. Mozzie killer

2. Spare mozzie killer.

3. ................

The importance of the internet

2008-02-05T21:06:00.000+03:00

Our internet connection is a GPRS mobile phone modem which plugs into the USB port. We can use it anywhere there is an MTN mobile phone signal. Of course, it is dead s….l….o….w. After the initial cost of the modem we pay 90,000 shs/month for unlimited access. Kampala, the capital, has MTN Edge technology which is exponentially faster than where we live. However, if Mbarara, the second largest city in Uganda, installs Edge well before we leave then we will be in internet heaven.

A discussion on a forum sparked the idea to list how important the internet has been to me and why I feel so isolated when I don’t have access for a few days or longer.

I began using the internet in the mid-90’s. The benefits of it from my perspective:

Planned and booked my first trip out of the US (Ireland).
Meeting friends including my husband!
Webcam: seeing my granddaughter for the first time on a webcam when she was 2 days old and I was 4,000 miles away. Watching her learn to walk and talk. Staying connected to her in real time. (unfortunately I can't do that in Uganda - need a fast connection).
Completely planning and booking all travel—airline tickets/hotels/rental cars/sites of interest to tourists/restaurants
Banking
Shopping for anything at all!!
Buying/booking tickets online for concerts, etc.
Looking up anything I want to know about, no matter what.
Meeting other Americans living in the UK and being helped/helping others with their adjustment.
Creating blogs, web pages, photo albums
Being able to discuss any subject with people who have a similar interest.
Looking up info on movies/TV—film locations, info on the actors, learning the real story behind a movie based on fact.
Learning about Uganda before we came. Read blogs written by those who had also been placed here. Getting tips on what to bring, what to expect.
Visa, passport, citizenship info and application forms
News anytime
Learning about anything, learning languages online, studying for UK driving test, studying for UK citizenship test, doing genealogical research.
Email--staying in touch.

etc. etc. etc...........

Wild animals!

2008-02-05T08:09:00.000+03:00

This past weekend Danny and I traveled on his motorbike to the town of Bushenyi, about 60km away, to meet with other volunteers (friends). I'm not crazy about riding on a motorbike, but I'm getting used to it. In order for me to be less stressed about riding on a vehicle with nothing between me and the hard road or big trucks or vans, I stick my Ipod in my pocket and play my favourite music. It helps.

Saturday we had a meeting and afterward indulged in food and beer.

Early Sunday morning a group of us headed to Queen Elizabeth National Park for guided chimp tracking. Unfortunately, we didn't see any chimps but did see black and white colubus monkeys and another type of small primate. We also saw many large red, biting ants....one encounter of which Danny would like to forget. The walk took most of the morning and afterward we drove to Mweya Lodge, spotting elephants, warthogs, antelope, buffalo and baboons on the way.

Mweya Lodge is quite expensive but the location is stunning. It overlooks the channel where Lakes George and Edward meet. From the bar and restaurant we spotted a massive elephant, rhinos, and a buffalo stampede. Boat trips through the lakes give a close-up view of the animals on the shore as well as spotting crocodiles. There was no time on this trip, but we plan to return.
http://www.mweyalodge.com/

Queen Elizabeth National Park.......
http://www.uwa.or.ug/queen.html

..........has savanna, swamp, gorge, 10 crater lakes, forest.

There are 95 mammals there including: 10 primate species, jackal, hyena, lion, leopard, antelope, buffalo, elephant, warthog, crocodile, and 610 species of bird.

The Shackled Continent

2008-01-29T17:11:00.000+03:00

I just finished reading 'The Shackled Continent - Africa's Past, Present and Future' by Robert Guest. 2004. An international best seller.

This was an enlightening, thought- provoking book and I recommend it to anyone with an interest in Africa. The book gives brief histories of several African countries. It also gives explanations and possible solutions to Africa's state of affairs.

http://www.londonbookreview.com/lbr0008.html

HIV/AIDS in Uganda

2008-01-25T21:44:00.000+03:00

Uganda is one of the rare countries in Africa to successfully deal with the HIV/AIDS pandemic as stated in the article below from WHO:

Uganda reverses the tide of HIV/AIDS

Uganda's success in reducing high HIV infection rates is the result of high-level political commitment to HIV prevention and care, involving a wide range of partners and all sectors of society. Same-day results for HIV tests and social marketing of condoms and self-treatment kits for sexually transmitted infections, backed up by sex education programmes, have helped reduce very high HIV infection rates.

Uganda, one of the first countries in sub-Saharan Africa to experience the devastating impact of HIV/AIDS and to take action to control the epidemic, is one of the rare success stories in a region that has been ravaged by the HIV/AIDS epidemic. While the rate of new infections continues to increase in most countries in sub-Saharan Africa, Uganda has succeeded in lowering its very high infection rates. Since 1993, HIV infection rates among pregnant women, a key indicator of the progress of the epidemic, have been more than halved in some areas and infection rates among men seeking treatment for sexually transmitted infections have dropped by over a third.
Full article: http://www.who.int/inf-new/aids2.htm

And from USAID:

In Uganda, according to estimates by UNAIDS, HIV prevalence among adults peaked at around 15 percent in 1991, and fell to 5 percent as of 2001. While some quibble on the numbers, we know this dramatic decline is unique to Uganda, which is why it is important that we examine what led to the turnaround.
The Uganda success story is about prevention. When President Museveni came to power in January 1986, his country was already being decimated by AIDS. Under President Museveni’s leadership, leaders at every level of society responded to this crisis by sending a unified and forceful message. They urged people to prevent the spread of HIV. Their message was as simple as ABC: Abstain, Be faithful, and, if necessary, use a Condom. This message was disseminated widely through all sectors of society during the late 1980s.
Full speech: http://www.usaid.gov/press/speeches/2003/ty030519.html

From a mzungu point of view.....

2008-01-24T15:37:00.002+03:00

Mzungu: Kiswahili for white person - used in many African countries

the positives...

Fresh, locally grown avocadoes for the equivalent of 3 pence/6 cents
Huge sweet pineapples
Friendly people
Beautiful landscape
Nearly perfect weather
Unpolluted
Very low crime in our area
BBC World Service on the radio
CNN several hours/day when the power is on
Having the internet at home
Several good European restaurants in town
The reaction we get when we speak in the local language (Runyankole)
Markets with fabulous fruit and veg
Pleasant campus
Fellow volunteers
Kids everywhere are always so happy to see us
Hardly anyone smokes
No negative black/white history so no grudge or chip on shoulders – we are welcomed with open arms
Exchange rate with our pound

the negatives ...

Unreliable electricity
Slow internet
Shoddily-made goods (Chinese-made rejects from western countries)
Not finding the items we need
Mozzies all year!
The need to sleep under an inconvenient mozzie net
The battery on my computer lasting only 1.5 hours
No haddock, but great chips
No proper milk (just UHT/long life or unpasteurized whole milk)
Not knowing how much we are being overcharged for some items (always charged more because ‘wealthy’ is tattoed across our mzungu faces!)
Trying to find a hairdresser who knows how to cut my fine, straight hair
Was told that ALL volunteers lose weight in the first few months of their placement – HA! Not me. Not with these free high carb/high calorie lunches
Get homesick for Scotland and for family in the US
Weather actually gets monotonous – no seasons
The roads, the drivers, the transportation

...and just plain different/a curiosity

Everyone’s curtains are put up with the design showing on the outside and the lining on the inside

Being the centre of attention in town
Trying to figure out how to explain the internet, ipod, etc to people
Having to boil water to drink
Bargaining in shops
Weird dreams because of our anti-malarial med
Seamstresses using Singer pedal sewing machines to make clothing whilst sitting outside their shops
Charcoal-fueled irons
Using a panga (machete) for gardening instead of shovels
People make their own bricks by hand to build their own houses
Ugandans like their meat tough and chewy
Ugandans eat matoke (cooked and smashed plantains) every day
The curious use of English (their 2nd language) – phrases such as “how was the night”, “how is the day”, “you have been lost” (when someone hasn’t seen me for a few days).

Things I've observed about Ugandans....

2008-01-13T09:52:00.000+03:00

they....

love elaborate greetings—I never walk into a shop or anywhere without greeting. It’s considered very rude to just dive in and speak without greeting.
love to give speeches. This can make assemblies, meetings, or church services extremely loooonnnngggg….
are never in a hurry (except when driving)—if I walk quickly someone will comment on how fast I am walking.
are ardent England football (soccer) fans—especially Manchester United, Arsenal, and Liverpool.
think plumpness or fatness is attractive although this is slowly changing.
are extraordinarily amiable, very willing to help
are smart dressers and are nearly always neatly dressed and pressed, even while working in a field digging
women rarely wear trousers (except in Kampala). Apparently the shape of a bum is extremely erotic.
are religious--mainly christian but still retain traditional beliefs such as animism.
are unfamiliar or vaguely familiar with technology and are amazed by it—even our bottled gas cooker was a source of amazement.
can be bent over working in fields and gardens for hours and hours at a time.
start working at sunrise, stop after sunset
have children as young as 6 carrying jugs of water on their heads
seem happy despite having little material goods

Older posts, comments, holiday review

2008-01-12T22:12:00.002+03:00

In the sidebar of the blog I've added links to some of my older posts--those which are informative regarding where we live, etc., or those that are my favourites thus far.

Comments or questions are welcomed and encouraged. You don't need to have a Blogger account to add a comment--it can be done anonymously. Simply click on the comments link at the bottom of each post.

My review of our accommodation over the christmas holiday has been published on Tripadvisor:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g673829-d939618-r12374054-Crater_Bay_Cottages-Kabale.html

A couple of pics....

2008-01-07T17:28:00.001+03:00

Hand washing laundry

Danny on his motorbike

Babies on Motorbikes!

2008-01-07T17:21:00.000+03:00

Boda bodas are small motorbikes which serve as the cheapest form of public transport. Frequently they are loaded down with a passenger, often two, a rolled up mattress or other large item. A large bag or suitcase may be in front of the driver because the bike is too loaded down with passenger(s) or bags. Women always sit side-saddle and it’s not only because they are wearing dresses. I have seen them sit side-saddle when wearing trousers as well. Often you will see entire families on one boda—the driver, a man, a woman, and two small children. It makes me cringe to see children, especially toddlers and babies, on these dangerously-driven vehicles. It is extremely rare to see anyone wearing a helmet.

Why do parents put their children at risk? They have no choice. They can’t afford more expensive transport and certainly can’t afford their own car.

Waiting for power.....

2008-01-06T08:54:00.001+03:00

......and waiting and waiting and waiting and waiting.... JOY!! the lights came on..... despair.....they went off again. damn! only 30% power left on my computer battery....... sigh.... my ironing is piling up. no, I don't want a charcoal iron! it would be a disaster if we didn't have a bottled gas cooker!

The electrical lines in a huge area are being replaced. Since the beginning of November the power has been off during the day and has come back on in the evening at random times but generally by 7-7.30, sometimes later. In the beginning it was on all the time on weekends. It wasn't on yesterday. It came on last night several times, but didn't stay on. It has almost always been on all day Sunday. This morning it's been on for 5 minutes, then off again...... sigh..... why didn't I buy a 5 hour battery for my computer?!

Ah, well.....I can't complain about the weather....

Crisis in Kenya causes shortages in Uganda

2008-01-02T19:44:00.000+03:00

The rioting in Kenya over a fraudulent election outcome has resulted in many deaths. It has also affected Uganda and other landlocked countries since petrol and other goods are imported
from or through Kenya.
http://allafrica.com/stories/200801020014.html
http://tinyurl.com/398wer

Petrol in our area of Uganda has doubled and even tripled in some areas. Danny and I left our holiday accommodation this morning and noticed price changes at garages going from appoximately 2,600sh to 6,000 and 8,000sh. The roads were nearly devoid of traffic. No one can afford to pay that amount and the taxis, matatus (minibus taxis) and bodas (motorbike taxis) have tripled their fares. We saw few of them on the road.

We are safe where we are as all the rioting is in Kenya near the border with Eastern Uganda -- we are in the SW. If this continues the cost of transporting goods will dramatically increase and affect the price of all goods.

A couple of notes....
Anyone can sign up to get my blog updates via email. See the box in the sidebar and simply add your email address. Confirm it by replying to the email you will be sent.

I will be adding my accommodation review with the requested 'candid guest photos' to Tripadvisor during the next week or so. I will post the link to the blog.

Happy new year!

2007-12-31T10:27:00.000+03:00

Hoping everyone has a.......

HAPPY NEW YEAR 2008!

Another sunny day here - low to mid 70's but can feel like 80 in the sun. Plans are to have some wine this evening but none of us know if we'll be able to stay awake until midnight.....maybe the two who are well under 40 can but the rest of us (nearly 50 and the over 50's) may not.

I have added more photos to the album and still have more to upload--a slow process with mobile internet.

http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny

Comments on comments

2007-12-31T10:16:00.001+03:00

All the comments to my posts are appreciated. Hope everyone had a nice holiday.

Yes, I missed seeing my granddaughter and the rest of my family for christmas but did have a nice time with Danny and friends. Looking forward to seeing them all in May.

Aubrey--I didn't really learn to cook anything at the VSO 'cooking class' except for chapatis (a bread). We were put to work peeling and slicing mostly. The food was fantastic - pumpkin, matoke, beans, various vegetable dishes, g-nut sauce (peanut sauce), salads. They also cooked beef and chicken but I've learned that when they are cooked the traditional Ugandan way the meat is so tough it rips your teeth out! As for my favourite Ugandan foods, I'd have to say the fresh pineapple and avocados. I enjoy matoke with bean sauce but dooubt that I'll miss it when we return home.

Most of the food at our holiday accommodation is good but the staff is on 'African time' - it can take 1 - 1.5 hours to get your meal after ordering. So we've learned to order well ahead of any hunger pangs.

A few pics....

2007-12-26T16:16:00.002+03:00

Lake Bunyonyi

Our cottage

Orphans who entertained us on Christmas day

More pics here: http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/