Runyankole Language - Downloadable Files

I have uploaded the audio file and a couple of the text files to this web page:

http://www.mzungu.350.com/

I am in the US for the holidays and while here will try to finish typing the notes and upload them to the page.

Season's Greetings - HO HO HO!

Money

This 1,000 shilling note will buy you:
-5 avocados or
-a soda or
-a large pineapple or
-4 eggs or
-1 kg of tomatoes or
-4 text messages Uganda to UK
value is 52 US cents/34 UK pence


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30,000 shillings will buy you:
-a steak, chips and veg meal for two as well as a bottle of beer each or
-3 bags of Muesli cereal or
-7 tins of John West (UK) tuna or
-a nice tshirt or
-4 500g cans of Quaker Oats porridge

value is $15.00/£9.00

Runyankole Language

The language spoken in Ankole, the SW region of Uganda, is Runyankole/Runyankore. Resources are difficult to find and thus far aside from lessons on campus from the college nurse, we only have an old Peace Corps manual (Peace Corps is NOT generous with their manuals so I can't obtain a new one), a very small booklet I found in a bookshop, and the handout from VSO training.

I am compiling a manual which I will upload when complete. I made a recording of our tutor speaking the basic greetings and most common words used. The file is 2+mg.

Several people have emailed me after finding my blog and have asked for assistance in learning Runyankole. I was able to email one person the audio file, but no one else. I will however do so while in the US over the holidays since I'll have access to high speed internet. I also hope to complete the manual while there.

I have created a basic website which allows uploading of PDF files as well as audio. All files will be uploaded there as soon as complete. The url of the site will be posted as soon as this is done.

Wanted: Computer books

I am tutoring introductory computers and am in urgent need of resources. Danny will be teaching IT next term since some used computers were recently donated. It's possible that the college will have an internet connection early next year as well.

The vast majority of staff and students have had little or no exposure to computers. All are very keen to learn! The computers all have Windows 98 installed so newer books are not desired. The computers have CD, floppy drives, and USB ports.

The most helpful books:

• Basic books such as in the Dummies/Idiots series or any primary school level book.
• MS Word
• How to use the Internet.
• Windows 98
• CD-ROMs for learning computers
• Learning to type programs
• Mouse pads

Many copies are needed as there are about 500 staff and students here. We currently have about 20 computers.

I am requesting that some of you generous, good-hearted people donate and mail books, etc to:

Annie & Danny
c/o Bishop Stuart Core Primary Teacher's College
PO Box 152
Mbarara
Uganda

Thank you!!

Satellite TV!

On the day before the presidential election the salespeople from GTV satellite tv came to our college trying to sell their packages. Danny happened to be around when they came and make a deal to have it installed the same day. I got to watch the election on MSNBC and other channels which thrilled me to no end!

We resisted getting satellite tv for a long time because it would add to the image of a rich mzungu. However, 3 other staff on the campus also bought it, so we don't stand out. Previously we had one local channel which showed a few hours of CNN International a few hours a day and usually had a very bad picture.

Ah, the primitive life of a volunteer.... no washing machine, no oven, no hot water...but we have satellite tv! We only get about 20 channels but four of them are news, four are sports, a movie channel, and even a channel which shows reruns of American tv shows like Friends.

Danny has been showing a movie to students on a big screen every weekend and they are all thrilled! All are shown with subtitles because they have a lot of difficulty with many accents.

President Obama!!

The election is over and I am elated, thrilled, hopeful and optimistic! Today I am a very proud American. This joyous occasion was sweetened by phone calls from my son in Michigan followed by one from my dear (American) friend in Scotland.

President Barack Obama...............YES!!

Still here.....just too preoccupied to post!

Nothing to do with Uganda, but.....

I have been faithfully following the campaigns for US President - more than any previous election - so I haven't been doing much writing for my blog. Fortunately, the electricity has been mostly consistent and the one tv station we get has been showing more hours of CNN International than previously. Although I cannot watch the debates I see the clips CNN chooses to show.

I am a member of a social network which is directed at the over 50's in the US but is gaining quite a lot of overseas members. http://www.eons.com/

Eons has many forums to discuss politics and it is, as expected, extremely busy with debates, discussions, and nasty, vile, and viscious arguments regarding the upcoming election. I search several online newspapers for campaign coverage as well. No need to say who I am voting for, however..........

http://signs.cafepress.com/item/that-one-yard-sign/315108756

One year ago tomorrow.......

We landed at Entebbe Airport on 1 Oct 2007.

In some ways it seems a long time since we arrived, but mostly the time has flown by. 1 more year to go.

During the next year....

• We hope to get funding for new computers, proper desks and chairs, and the internet for the college so we can give tutors, staff, and students a good basis for using computers and the internet. This is something I am looking forward to helping with.
• Danny will continue teaching, of course.
• I will finish the Runyankole language manual which I'll share with other volunteers or anyone else who desires to learn the language.
• We will visit my family for christmas this year.
• Two family visits here in Uganda next year.
• Hope to have a year with less cases of food poisoning.
• Hope to have another malaria-free year.
• I will take a few thousand more photos.
  
  
  

More cultural differences....

Ugandans find it hard to believe that not all westerners are rich. Their definition of rich is vastly different from ours. When I explained to someone that there are many very poor people in the US and UK they asked for a description of their living conditions. When asked if they had indoor plumbing and electricity, I replied 'yes'. I was then told that they are not poor.

Mud hut and pit toilet

Someone asked me about transportation in our countries and I told them most people have cars and there is also the option of buses and trains. It was assumed that we also had boda bodas (motorbike taxis) and there was surprise when I said we don't have those.

People are surprised when we inform them that many of the things we see on the roads here would cause the driver to be put in jail in our countries. Things such as completely filling the back of a pickup truck with people, or putting 4 passengers on a motorbike, or putting 25 people in a 15-seater mini-bus taxi, or filling a 5 passenger taxi with 1o people are what is normally seen here.

Except in the capitol and possibly a few other places, mortgages are not something one gets here. One of our neighbours is having a house built on some land he bought in town. He saves his money and when he has enough for the next phase of the house, he buys the materials needed and pays someone to construct it. Many people we know have built their homes with their own hands. It is common to make your own bricks! As for licensing of plumbers, electricians, construction workers to build these houses....not here, no way. People are amazed when we tell them to buy a house in our countries we get a mortgage and then pay for the house for the next 20 or 30 years.

Lady on a boda boda - motorbike taxi

Transfers of College Staff - Go or Quit your Job!

The title of the head of a teaching college is principal. He (they are all men) has two deputy principals.

Every six years many of the principals and deputy principals of the teaching colleges may be transferred to another college, whether they like it or not. If there are vacancies to fill at other times they can be transferred then as well. All deputy principals and acting principals are called in to be interviewed in Kampala at the Ministry of Education for positions of principal. Some deputy principals are women and they go through the process as well even though they won't get the job. Hmmm....

Anyone who has reached these positions and salaries usually owns quite a large farm. The spouse normally lives on the farm with the family and may also have a local job. Children are usually in boarding schools. Most principals and deputy principals live in staff housing on a campus, unless they are lucky enough to be working near their home. Buying another house when one is transferred is not an option.

The problem with this? The family often lives hours away and the principal or deputy principal does not see their spouse and family often - once a month or more. If the husband and wife are both principal/deputy principal they will work at different colleges thus sometimes leaving the farm with no one there except field workers and a housegirl/boy.

The above is the same for tutors (lecturers) at the colleges. They make much less money though which means they can't travel to see their families as often.

Over the last couple of months this process has been taking place. Our principal and one of our deputy principals are being transferred. We are going to miss both of them very much but are happy that our next door neighbour, the other deputy principal, won't be leaving us.

This process for tutors will take place in a year.

Does the Ministry of Education not see that this process is bad for families???

Lake Mburo revisited

Our fourth trip to Lake Mburo was experienced differently from the previous three.

First, we went alone without any other volunteers.

Second, we stayed in the bedded tents instead of a banda.

The bedded tents consist of 2 twin beds, are on a platform with a veranda, and have close access to a hot shower (when the fire is lit) and proper sit down, flushing toilets (!!). The price is higher than the bandas but still quite cheap - 40,000 shillings--about $25. We also liked the tents because they have screens with flaps which can be rolled up so we get more light and more night sounds.

Finally, we tried a place for breakfast which was recommended by another volunteer.

Instead of the restaurant by the lake we ate at the nearby Arcadia Cottages restaurant. For 10,000 shillings--about $6--we had a lovely full breakfast of fresh fruit, eggs of your choice, sausage, bacon, fried potatoes, fried tomato, beans, toast made with good bread and butter, and tea or coffee. This restaurant also has proper toilet facilities.

Pics have been posted here:
http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157607393324230/

On previous trips we had not ventured up to Lookout Point. We did so this time and the view from the top was simply stunning.

On being a 'celebrity'

As I have mentioned previously, being a mzungu (white person) means being treated like a celebrity and being the centre of attention. When we socialise with Ugandans, especially if we visit their homes, I get the distinct impression that their status in the community increases.

Many people want to be our friend, or at least get our attention. Kids always wave at us and the adults will as well if we wave first. I especially love it when the young kids jump up and down and scream in excitement at seeing us. Their wee faces radiate joy at seeing us especially when we wave back or speak to them.

Danny and I attended a wedding reception today at which there were several hundred people. We were the only mzungus there and we were treated, not surprisingly, as celebrities. Most people wanted to greet us and shake our hands. They were so pleased that we attended a Ugandan wedding reception. The speakers who entertained the guests mentioned us at least a dozen times….we were referred to as guests of honour, a miracle, a blessing, as well as some friendly jokes about us. The entire reception was conducted in Runyankole so we only knew they were talking about us when we’d hear the word mzungu/bazungu and a sea of faces would turn around and look at us.

The village where the reception took place is rather remote and nowhere near a tourist destination so we were recipients of a great deal of attention due to the rarity of a white person in the area.

When I began to take a few photos of some of the kids I was suddenly swarmed by a couple of dozen of them all wanting their pics taken. They screamed in delight when I showed them their photos on the camera screen. Most, if not all, of these kids had likely never seen a white person before. I am sure that every child in the place waved, smiled or stared at us for quite some time.

Photo: thumbs up must be universal as it is also common in Uganda

US Election

Here in Uganda it is difficult to get all the specific coverage of the US presidential election that I want. I am sure people in the US are probably overdosing on it, but I need more. We get CNN International for 2 - 3 hours per weekday. I will miss the debates as they are broadcast on the weekends.

BBC World Service provides quite a bit of coverage. But, alas, it's just the radio.

Our internet connection which is an MTN mobile phone USB modem had been extremely bad for the past month or so. Even when it connects the speed is much too slow to watch video clips.
I chat on internet forums and find out what the public thinks and their opinions on how the campaigning is progressing.

When Ugandans find out I am American they always ask me if I am voting for Obama. The reaction is always a big smile and thumbs up when I say yes.

Kibale Forest Chimps

The college is currently on a term break so we've had plenty of time to travel. We have been bidding farewell to some of our favourite volunteers who are going back home...Fransje and Hilary in Bushenyi, and Barbara and Michael in Fort Portal. Plans have been made for future meetings when all of us are back in the UK/Europe.

Last week we spent a couple of nights at one of our favourites, Kingfisher Lodge, where we said farewell to Fransje who will soon be back in Holland. Then we headed to Fort Portal to spend a couple of delightful days with Barbara and Michael, a married couple who teach at a PTC and will soon be returning to England.

With a wee bit of prompting we decided to stay in Kibale Forest which is in the Fort Portal area. Our accommodation was the Primate Lodge Kibale which is a short walk from the meeting point for the chimp trek. The ambience, comfort, and service was superior. It was a pleasure to wake up to a symphony of birds or watch monkeys in the trees whilst resting on a comfy sofa on a veranda.

The chimp walk took nearly 4 hours to complete. Three groups consisting of 6 each were guided by a ranger and the rangers kept in touch via walkie talkie to increase the chances of all groups viewing the chimps. The walk was rough as we went off-trail and straight through the rainforest for the majority of the walk. The effort was worth it as we came upon a group of chimps after they had been spotted by one of the other groups. We could hear the chimps screeching loudly for some distance prior to our arrival because <<vegetarians: skip the following details>>
they had killed a monkey and were loudly 'discussing' which of the male chimps would be lucky enough to partake of fresh, raw monkey flesh.

The rules for walkers was to keep a distance of 8 metres between us and the chimps. It was very easy to watch them indulging in the meat-eating, plant-eating, or just lying or sitting around or swinging in the trees. With so many people trying to take photos, the ground being rough and uneven, and the chimps not understanding the need for them to 'be still' and pose without a tree leaf or branch in the way, the number of good pics I took was few. But we thoroughly enjoyed being close to the chimps and watching them in spite of the lack of good pics.

Photos are being uploaded here:
http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157607094665239/

Bikes and Bodas

Bicycles and boda-bodas (motorbike taxis) seem to be the majority of the traffic here. Bodas are a nuisance and very dangerous. They drive between lanes of cars, drive on the wrong side of the road and pull in front of cars and trucks. Drivers rarely wear helmets and helmets are not provided for passengers. I have uploaded pics to my photo album of bodas and bikes carrying people and goods. I have yet to get a pic of 5 people (usually 2 of whom are babies or small children) on a boda but will keep trying.


Hauling matooke to market



http://www.flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157606330651974/

Irish Student Teachers

For 6 weeks we’ve had 4 recent graduates from colleges in Dublin living on the campus and teaching in the local schools and at the college as well as painting and doing odd repairs at a school, etc. They raised and donated a great deal of money for the college and intend to raise more for the local schools. They made quite an impression on all of us and will be missed. This 6 week stay of graduates from Dublin occurs annually. If next years group are half as nice as this lot, we'll be very fortunate!

Photo is Mary, Elaine, Des and Anna.

Potholes from hell!!!

On our trip to Kampala yesterday I calculated that if we were driving on a UK or US motorway or even a properly paved 2-lane road, the trip would take half the time. However, since driving on these roads is like manoeuvering on an obstacle course, it takes 5 hours instead of 2.5. It is also thoroughly tiring and stressful for the driver. Some of these potholes can be compared to Grand Canyon. Ok, not quite, but they are the biggest I have ever seen. And so numerous! I believe many of them are due to trucks which are overloaded. They are also made and repaired with low quality materials.

I have tried to take photos of these but the depth and overall size and frequency of them cannot be shown in a photograph.

Trips are unlike those in the UK or US. Rest stops or motorway stops? No such thing. Public restrooms? Not that you’d want to use. Fast food? Nope. Nice petrol stations filled with goodies to snack on? Well, to be fair they do have some things to eat or drink. And there are a couple of places to stop with decent food and proper toilets.

A local school

On a recent visit to Bushenyi we paid a brief visit to one of the local schools as which a recent Bishop Stuart PTC graduate now teaches. A new wing is being built on the school.

Mobile phone companies – advertising

All over Uganda there are buildings painted bright colours with the logos of mobile phone companies. Since landlines are rare outside the capitol of Kampala, most people own a mobile phone thus making competition between companies fierce.

In trading centres, towns, and villages many shops have been painted as advertising. Some buildings appear to be used as homes. Not sure how this is arranged – do the business/homeowners get a free paint job in order for the company to obtain advertising? I will have to ask. Anyway, amongst all the dull, brown buildings there are the following very bright colours which cannot be ignored:
Warid – White with red and a dash of blue
Zain – Hot pink (formerly Celtel)
Uganda Telecom – bright blue
MTN – bright yellow
Celtel – Red, yellow and white (now Zain)

Visiting a Ugandan home

A couple of weeks ago we visited the farm of one of our college drivers. Tugume lives on the campus but visits his home which is about 1.5 hours away by car as often as he can. Not owning his own car, as most Ugandans don't, he must travel by public transport which makes the journey very long.

Tugume is a former school teacher and is very intelligent, has an excellent command of English, and is very interesting to listen to. He is also one of the nicest and most helpful people we've met.

We were warmly welcomed at Tugume's home by his wife, several of his children and some grandchildren. His farm has a very large garden with many matooke trees, some cows, chickens, and other crops. As is typical in Uganda, guests are given an extra special meal - definitely not the typical meal a Ugandan family would eat. This meal was superb! The family was so welcoming and happy we visited. Their English was excellent and it was obvious that education is extremely important in the family. The eldest son is soon to graduate from a university. I had a chat with a teenage daughter, Rose, who said she loved to read (unusual for a Ugandan to read for pleasure). She said she liked novels and also Shakespeare. Impressive! I have loaned her some of my books and am keeping an eye out for more.



Grandson



Daughter Rose

Local hospital tour - depressing!

One of our friends is a volunteer who works as a physician and professor at the local hospital and university. Danny and I visited the hospital for the first time today and it was difficult not to cry.

I expected the hospital to be of extremely low standards compared to western hospitals but what I saw shocked me. Tragically there are many, many hospitals in Uganda and all over Africa which would make this hospital look modern in comparison. We discovered:

• There are often 3 or 4 babies/toddlers in one bed.
• The neo-natal ward (which was recently set up by the volunteer) has no incubators but is a small room with heaters. The nurses refuse to work in there so all care is provided by the mothers, attendants and the doctors.
• Babies are dying all the time.
• There aren't nearly enough nurses so most of the care is given by family members. They bring mattresses to sleep outdoors on the hospital grounds. They also bring basins for doing the laundry and lay them on the grass or fences to dry.
• Meals are not provided, therefore, the family of the patient brings food and cooking utensils to prepare their meals.
• Families are being taught about nutrition because most children are suffering from malnutrition - not because of lack of good food but because of ignorance about nutrition and the importance of continuing breast-feeding.
• Usually there are no drugs/anaesthesia available at the hospital so the patient's family is sent with a prescription into the town to purchase them from the pharmacy.
• Severe lack of equipment
• More than half of the patients admitted are children and a large percentage of those are babies.
• The paediatric ward has mosquito nets but many of the beds have none and there are no screens on the windows (which are often broken). Therefore, patients contract malaria easily.
  
  Grim, very grim.

Not all hospitals are like this one – some are worse, some are better. The International Hospital of Kampala is a very good, modern and clean hospital. All VSO volunteers are sent there for care if the problem is not minor enough to be treated adequately locally.

When volunteers, staff or college students are ill we are taken to the private hospital in town. It is more expensive but far superior care.

VSO Cluster Groups & Weekend Trip

The VSO arranges geographical cluster groups - the purpose of these is mainly for support for/from other volunteers. Our group consists of Mbarara, Bushenyi, and Isingiro (no one there now). The groups also do projects and are given a small amount of money from VSO or other sources to fund these. Projects have included holding workshops for teachers/teacher trainers on alternatives to corporal punishment in schools. The current project is educating the public on preventing malnutrition.

Our group has meetings every 5 or 6 weeks. This past weekend we had our meeting in Bushenyi, spent the night there, then proceeded the next morning to Kalinzu Forest Reserve for a walk through a rainforest. There are at least 4 species of monkeys there and we saw many. There were 12 people in our group and included one of our favourite couples who joined us from Fort Portal.

http://www.nfa.org.ug/

After our walk we all drove a short distance to Kingfisher Lodge for lunch. Danny and I have been there twice and we chose to spend Sunday night there in one of the lovely bandas which overlook the Rift Valley.

Another trip to Lake Mburo

I guess we enjoy the place... Danny and I took our third trip to Mburo along with 4 other volunteers.

Pics are here:

http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157606032049781/

Daily Life in Kibingo

.....an updated summary of our day-to-day life here for future volunteers or anyone else who may be curious.
Since we are spoiled rotten mzungus our life here does not reflect that of the typical Ugandan, most certainly not in this or any area outside of Kampala. Kampala is a very modern city with all the conveniences of any big city, but it is also surrounded by slums.

Our college is located near Mbarara, the second largest town in Uganda after the capitol of Kampala. We are 17kms away from the town and our area is called Kibingo (Chi-bingo).



Campus




Hill behind our house


The campus

All volunteers do not have the same type of accommodation we have. Some have much more modern, and others have no electricity, no running water and limited access to transportation. Therefore, the description of our lifestyle in no way typifies the life of every volunteer here.

Our accommodation is in semi-detached staff housing on the college campus which is in the countryside. There are large hills surrounding the campus which is 3 km off the main road on a dirt track which has more potholes than road. Matooke trees are absolutely everywhere.

The house has a tiny living room, tiny kitchen, 2 bedrooms – 1 fairly large, 1 small, bathroom, shower room, front and back porch. There is also a building behind the house which houses a ‘kitchen’ – a large empty concrete room – everyone else on campus uses their outdoor kitchens for cooking with charcoal or wood. We use this room for storage and gardening tools. There is also a long-drop (toilet) located behind the kitchen which we don’t use.

Pics of our house:

http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157603269365364/

Electricity:
We had a long period of only having power in the evenings, but currently we have power nearly 24 hours a day.

Water:
The majority of the time we have running water indoors, however, sometimes the pump for the well doesn’t work or hasn’t been switched on. The well supplies the campus and the many nearby villagers who fill up their jerry cans with water from the campus.

We don’t have hot water unless we boil it so showers are cold but there are the options of using the camping shower by sitting it in the sun filled with water, or using heated water to wash with using a large basin and jug. We have an indoor flushing toilet for which I am very, very grateful.

All water must be boiled before drinking, even if staying in a nice hotel.

Laundry:
Laundry is done by hand. I have a hose which I hook up through the window to the shower room faucet and fill 3 very large basins on our back porch. I now use a washboard I recently purchased on a trip the US. Detergents here are quite harsh and rough on clothing, but a milder detergent would result in dirty clothes. Laundry is hung on the clothesline to dry and on a breezy, sunny day can dry in less than an hour. Clothes need to be hung inside out to prevent too much fading.

All items must be ironed, even towels, socks, underwear and sheets due to the possibility of mango flies laying eggs on them and becoming embedded in our skin when the item is worn or used. We have an electric iron although the majority of Ugandans use a charcoal iron. I don’t mind ironing as I enjoy listening to audiobooks during this task.

Rubbish:
We have to burn or bury all our rubbish and compost all food scraps.

Grass:
…..has to be cut with a slasher – a long-handled blade which you swing back and forth, a bit like a golf club except in both directions. I look on this activity as exercise, otherwise I’d pay someone to do it.

Garden:
Danny is growing cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, eggplant, tomatoes, peppers, herbs, butternut squash, pumpkin, onions, watermelon, pineapple, and a variety of other veg and fruit.

Shopping:
We can get much of what we need in Mbarara. Fresh fruit and veg are very cheap. On any trip to Kampala I always bring an extensive list for shopping for the items we can’t get here or are significantly cheaper, or of better quality, or can be bought in bulk.

Appliances/luxury:
4 WD car (purchased after 5 months here)
Small TV but no satellite so viewing choices are very limited
Toaster (after we tired of frying the bread in a pan)
Electric kettle
Electric iron
Short wave radio for BBC World Service
Laptop – with mobile phone modem for excruciatingly slow internet
Refrigerator (the only one on campus)
2 burner gas cooker – no oven
Fan

Mosquitoes:
The anopheles and other types of mosquitoes are plentiful here, except during the dry season. The anopheles can be the source of malaria. All volunteers take an anti-malarial pill. We also use a mosquito net on the bed which we keep tucked in all the time. Our windows don’t have any screens so we shut the windows before dusk and open them well after dawn. This doesn’t totally prevent them from getting into the house though.

Climate:
Temps in our area of Uganda vary from an occasional nighttime low of 55F/12C to a daytime high of 85F/30C. There are dry and rainy seasons, but otherwise weather is about the same all year. The humidity is very low so we never have that sticky, muggy feeling. Most of the time it feels quite pleasant and we enjoy wearing short sleeves, shorts or capris, sandals or just barefoot.
Food:
Free lunches are provided at the college for staff and volunteers. It doesn’t vary much – rice, beans, matooke, sometimes posho, cabbage and occasionally doodo – a type of spinach. This is a very high carb meal and although Danny will eat it 5 days a week, I choose to eat it 2-3 times a week.

We have no trouble eating what we like in the evenings – soup, curry or stir-fry made mainly with veg from our garden. Also in our diet – eggs, avocado, pineapple, watermelon, porridge, bread, pasta, occasional cheese, tuna, peanut butter. And then, of course, on weekends it might be steak and chips, burger, Indian, pasta, Ugandan beer or imported Heineken, or South African wine.

Foods we miss:
Danny misses McEwans beer
We both miss tofu and Quorn for our curry
I miss haddock and chips (well, we can get good chips here, but not haddock)
Scones
Bacon rolls
Good bread

Work:
Danny teaches physics or general science one or two days a week and spends a couple of days doing lesson planning. He has fixed and networked the old computers in the college computer room and is trying to find funding for new computers and an internet connection. All computer-related repairs or problems are directed to him

I am often asked how I am able to fill my time here and people seem to be worried I’ll be bored and want to leave. This is not a problem.

I sometimes do typing for staff and the principal and have tutored on beginning computer skills.

I attend private language tutoring (from the college nurse), and am working on a language manual for any current or future volunteer in the area where Runyankole is spoken. Resources for learning this language are nearly non-existent.

Of course, I can always fill my time by doing laundry, ironing, sweeping all the dirt which never goes away, mopping, doing dishes, cleaning, cleaning…..

Then there is reading, writing my blog, the internet, taking pics and learning how to take better ones.

Ugandans:
Are sooooo very friendly. The children always wave at us when we drive or walk past, and the adults will as well if we wave or speak first. We know quite a bit of the local language and all the greetings, so we get a very happy reception.

Entertainment:
We have DVD’s, music, books, the internet. Movies can now be watched on a big screen with a projector hooked to a laptop. The TV is generally on only during the day, but occasionally we watch Ugandan news at night. During the day we get CNN International, but can also keep up with the news on the radio with BBC World Service or on the internet..

In the town of Mbarara there are three restaurants we frequent which serve Western and African food –
Agip: http://www.agipmotelmbarara.com/
Hotel Classic: http://www.hotelclassicafrica.com/
Lakeview: http://www.hotelsinuganda.com/lakeviewregency.html
http://www.africapoint.com/HOTELS/hotel.asp?hotelid=367

We like the Agip for the food (especially the steak and chips), Hotel Classic has good food but what we enjoy most is sitting on the balcony watching the town go by. We like Lakeview for its Sunday buffets which have a mix of African and a few Western foods. This has become our new Sunday routine – swimming pool and buffet. Occasionally we treat ourselves by spending the night there or elsewhere.

Tourism:
Thus far we have been to Lake Mburo National Park, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Fort Portal/Kibale Forest, Lake Bunyoni, and many trips to Kampala. Future trips are return trips to all of the above, Murchison Falls Nat’l Park, possibly Rwanda, Bwindi Nat’l Park.

Our photo album:
http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/collections/72157602736722927/

A few pics

Local pharmacy for every creature, Post Office coach, a couple of houses on our way to town.

The long dry season

June-August is the longest dry season of the year. It hasn't rained at all for about 3 weeks, and then it was just a short shower. It's possible it might not rain again until well into August.

This makes it difficult for the crops and cattle. To compound the problems the April-May rainy season was very dry this year. We water our garden during this time, but most others can't.

A benefit of the dry season is that the number of mosquitoes drops substantially. It also makes off-road wildlife tracking much easier as the tracks will be dry and not muddy when there is a risk of becoming stuck.

A group of us will be visiting Lake Mburo this coming weekend. For Danny and I it will be our third visit. It will be the 4th of July and I'll be the only American there but I'm sure the others will help me celebrate - even one of the English who said 'it's a celebration of getting rid of the Yanks!'.

Everyone thinks Uganda must be boiling hot because it's on the equator. But due to the high elevation it isn't. The sun can sometimes feel very strong even when the temperature is only in the 70's or low 80's (20's C). Out of the sun it doesn't feel hot. The humidity is quite low here which makes a difference. It isn't very often that we feel too hot, and then it's only because we are out walking in the sun for a long period - such as going to the shops and markets.

Yeah! Can order from Amazon!

Don't know why I didn't check before, but last week I wondered if I could order from Amazon.co.uk and have it delivered here. I was surprised to find that I could - it couldn't be a used book from the Marketplace sellers, but I can order new books - or other items.

So I ordered a book and it arrived after just one week. Of course the shipping fee is triple, but I don't care!

Technology in the classroom

On our recent trip to the US we purchased a projector. Its primary purpose is to enable Danny to give better presentations to his classes. All the tutors here use flip chart paper to teach.

Danny has been planning his lessons on his laptop using PowerPoint which can include photos, animations, sound, music, even movie clips. This is hooked up to the projector and shown on a large screen which the college owns but doesn't use. The students have never been exposed to anything like this and they love it.

As these students are training to be teachers this also shows them the possibilities for teaching in the future.

The projector also serves the purpose of showing movies in our house. Our living room is tiny so with the projector and the screen it gets very crowded, especially if we have a guest or two. It's like sitting in the front row of the cinema.

When we find bigger and better speakers we will begin to show movies to the students in the assembly hall.

Cultural Differences

Even after nearly 9 months in Uganda I am still astounded by the differences in our cultures. It still stops me in my tracks when someone asks a question or makes a comment that I don't know how to explain. A few of these are:

• Why do you read books if you are not studying? This is not a book culture so it is difficult for most Ugandans to understand that people read for pleasure or to gain knowledge that isn't required for work or school.
• What was the 'bride price' given for your (Danny's) daughter when she married? Generally in Uganda (outside the capitol) it is a number of cows given to the bride's family by the groom's.
• Explaining what the christmas holidays are like in the US and UK, especially all the lights and decorations.
• The fact that not all Western households have a maid (housegirl). There was a surprised reaction when I told someone that nearly all households, even poor ones, have a washer and dryer and that many have dishwashers. The housegirls here live in the house with the family and their meals are provided. But they work 7 days a week doing all types of work - washing clothes (by hand); ironing everything with a charcoal iron; cooking by charcoal or wood; gardening including digging, planting, harvesting and bending over pulling weeds for long hours; chopping wood; slashing the grass; sweeping; taking care of the children; etc. In our area the typical pay for a housegirl is 20,000 shs a month, the equivalent of $12. As spoiled mzungus we spend more than this on our Sunday lunch buffet at the hotel near town.
• Trying to explain that other countries have 4 distinct seasons. Uganda is the same all year round except for more rain at certain times.
• I told someone that Danny does the cooking because he enjoys it and is a better cook than I. I do the cleaning up. I was informed that it would be a source of shame for a Ugandan woman if she did not do all the cooking.
• Attempting to explain a wireless network. I am able to sit in our house and print to the college computer room printer. A staff member I had typed something for was gobsmacked by this.
• Explaining that I was listening to audiobooks on my Ipod.

Broccoli

Since returning from the US, we have had a couple of meals that - except for the rice - came completely from our garden. We ate eggplant, onions, herbs, broccoli, and couple of other things. I cannot take any credit as Danny is the gardener. I have never seen broccoli sold in Uganda - the seeds came from the UK. Here is one of our broccoli plants....

You are fat. Gee, thanks!

From what I have observed, most Ugandans believe that being plump or fat is attractive and a sign of prosperity. Being told one is fat is intended as a compliment, and most certainly not as an insult.

Last week it was mentioned to me that I had become fatter during my visit to America. Hmmm... As my background is American and British culture, I find it difficult to take this as a compliment.....very difficult. Of course, I cannot reveal that this is something I would rather not hear.

Other volunteers have had similar experiences. Recently one shared her experience of being complimented on getting fatter during the last couple of months, and that she'll continue to get bigger.

http://www.sirc.org/publik/mirror.html
In a study of British and Ugandan students' evaluation of body-shapes, the Ugandans rated an 'obese' female figure much more attractive than the British ......

http://bmj.bmjjournals.com/cgi/content/full/333/7570/672-c?rss=1
Doctors and government officials in Uganda are becoming increasingly concerned at the country’s growing incidence of diabetes, which they attribute to changes in lifestyle and rising obesity. The number of people with diabetes is now thought to have passed a million, in a population of 28 million.

Return from America

Danny and I had a pleasant and memorable time visiting my family. I took loads of photos while visiting, including about a thousand of my granddaughter! We are now settling back into our house in Uganda after spending a few days at our favourite hotel in Kampala. Unpacking is nearly finished and somehow a huge pile of laundry has accumulated. We have already booked our flights to the US for Christmas. Big thumbs up for Emirates Airlines as always!

This was our first trip out of Uganda since coming here 8 months ago and I wondered how it would feel to return after spending 3 weeks in the US. It is incredibly easy to become used to being spoiled there. I waver between wanting to be with family in the US, at home in Scotland or in Uganda.

While walking through Dubai Airport for the final leg of our flight we heard a flight to Glasgow being called. I got a lump in my throat and for a fleeting moment wanted to jump on that flight and go home. Homesickness comes and goes but I always remind myself how much I’d regret not finishing our placement here. The people and the weather are easy to become attached to. The landscape, the wildlife, the culture are things I enjoy as well.

On our drive back to Mbarara from Kampala we complained about all the potholes but we also enjoyed the renewal of our ‘celebrity’ status. A major thing I will miss when we go back home is the children always smiling and waving at us. One boy alongside the road smiled, waved and gave us two thumbs up. That did it for me. I was happy to be back.

While in the US I bought a washboard. Apparently there is only one company left in the US, which makes washboards. A couple of relatives pointed out that this company had recently been a feature on the news. Most of the washboards are used as musical instruments but many have been sent to soldiers in Iraq and other places where hand washing is done. I ordered one to bring back with us and have tried it out today. It is especially good for washing socks and washrags, so I am a satisfied customer of The Columbus Washboard Company in Logan, Ohio. http://www.columbuswashboard.com/

Since our visit was in May my family spent a good deal of their time at work or in school during our visit. So Danny and I did some exploring on our own. I’ve always liked Ann Arbor but didn’t realize what an interesting and pretty town it was until now. Since our visits have been in winter or autumn I hadn’t seen Michigan in spring in about 18 years—the last time I lived there. Lovely.

Highlights of our trip (aside from seeing all the family…wedding, memorial, etc etc etc):
-The town of Chelsea (pics are in my album) http://www.chelsea-mi.com/
-Civil War re-enactment at Greenfield Village http://www.hfmgv.org/village/index.aspx
-Tour of the Ford Rouge plant (linked to Greenfield Village)
-The refurbished Detroit Museum of Art http://www.dia.org/
-Frankenmuth http://www.frankenmuth.org/
-Great food!!!
-Getting to drink (clean, cold) water out of drinking fountains
-Hot showers, washer and dryer, no mozzie net at night, no mozzies!
-Shopping! Especially Best Buy, Borders, malls, etc……

Back to the present. The students return to the college tomorrow and classes resume later this week. Danny will be teaching and since the electricity has been reliable for well over a month we expect IT classes to resume. I will attend the classes to help students learn the basics beginning with Word.

Visiting America

Danny and I have been in the US since May 6th visiting my family. Both of us were missing the change of seasons and experiencing spring has been enjoyable although it has been much cooler than normal. I haven't been to Michigan in springtime in 18 years and had forgotten how pleasant it is with flowers and trees blooming.

My youngest son got married over the weekend and it was a lovely, small wedding. My only grandchild, an adorable girl, is growing up much too fast. She will be 3 years old in less than 2 months.

We have quickly become used to modern conveniences again like a washer and dryer, hot showers, clean water out of taps and drinking fountains, easy access to shops which contain anything one could possibly want, etc. Wondering how it feel to readjust after 3+ weeks.

Lake Mburo revisited

Last weekend we made another trip to Lake Mburo. One of the departing volunteers, Nikki, had never been there so we booked another visit. We were joined by another volunteer, Hilary.

There were a couple of events different from our first visit which is why I am posting about a trip to a park we have already visited.

While having pre-dinner refreshment one evening, two hippos wandered around the grounds next to the lakeside restaurant. It is unusual for hippos to come out of the water when the sun is still shining. A ranger was called as hippos pose a potential life-threatening danger to visitors. He informed us that the multitude of scratches over one of the hippos indicated that it had been in a serious fight. It left the lake because the wounds were not as painful whilst out of the water. We do not know why the other hippo had accompanied it. The hippos then went back into the water and the injured one was going to die.

As we walked past the warthogs which always frequent the grounds around the restaurant, one of our party got a bit too close while taking photographs. One warthog showed it was very annoyed by this and scared us all quite a bit. Warthogs, when they feel threatened, can also cause serious injury or death.

Monkeys ran around the restaurant during a couple of our meals which we found quite entertaining.

On our way out of the park at the end of the visit we decided to take one of the roads to a different park exit. This was not a main road but one of the well-maintained tracks. We evidently took a wrong turn somewhere and found ourselves on a muddy off-road track; the type the rangers take you on for a game drive. We only had the sun to tell us what direction we were going in. Danny's driving skills and the 4 wheel drive on our vehicle saved us from getting stuck on unmaintained tracks. At one point we passed a large herd of water buffalo in a pond. We had stopped the car to figure out which way to go and the buffalo began watching us, then walking towards us. It appeared to be all females except the leader; a huge bull. The bull began chasing the car and we sped away! Yikes!

We have been in Kampala the last few days to prepare for a flight to the US on Sunday to visit with my family, attend a memorial service for my dad, and to celebrate at my son's wedding.

QE National Park Weekend

Busy weekend! We spent Friday night in Bushenyi so we could have a send-off for two departing volunteers – Nikki and Shane. They will be missed! We set off for Kingfisher Lodge in Kichwamba on Saturday morning. Our 8th wedding anniversary was Thursday, April 17th and we decided to spoil ourselves.

Kingfisher Lodge:
http://www.dostudios.de/kingfishersafaris.net/news_en.html

Our room was simply but interestingly decorated with a private balcony overlooking the Rift Valley.

The Lodge is set in spectacular scenery. Our banda, outdoor dining, and the swimming pool overlooked the Rift Valley. Service and meals were wonderful.

Sunday morning we departed for Mweya Lodge which is located in Queen Elizabeth National Park. On the drive to the lodge from the main road we were thrilled to spot a leopard sitting in the high grass—a rare occurrence. After a gorgeous lunch of fish (Tilapia) and chips we arranged the mid-afternoon boat trip through the Kazinga Channel which connects Lake Edward and Lake George. Due to the downpour that morning there weren’t any elephants drinking from the lake. However, we did see hippos, water buffalo, and various birds.
http://www.mweyalodge.com/

On Monday morning we arose at 5.30 to prepare for a 6.30 game drive with a ranger guide in our own vehicle. Spotted were an injured female lion, water buffalo, Ugandan Kobs, warthogs, waterbucks, monkeys, and mongoose. Our guide spotted a large herd of Kob demonstrating the behaviour or animals on alert for a dangerous animal. They were all fixated on a tree surrounded by shrub and their tails wagged furiously. A leopard was in the tree. We only got a quick glimpse of it as it leaped down into the shrub. On the way back from the lodge we saw a herd of elephants—a great photo op!

The scenery in the park is magnificent. Queen Elizabeth National Park is adjacent to the Rwenzori Mountains National Park which creates a stunning backdrop to the savannah, Euphorbia trees and brush.
http://www.uwa.or.ug/queen.html

http://www.game-reserve.com/uganda_queen_elizabeth.html

The lodge attracts European and American tourists and has steep prices. Our double room was US $255 for full board (all 3 meals). Our room was very nice—clean, had a room-sized mosquito net so we didn’t have to struggle with tucking a net under the mattress, and nicely decorated with a view over the lake from our back porch. But I expected a more posh room for the price we paid. The service was 1st class during our stay. From the bar, restaurant, pool, decks, porches and guestrooms one can observe elephants, hippos, and water buffalo as they drink from Lake Edward.

Link to many pics of our trip (still being uploaded):http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157604670794975/

Lake Mburo National Park

Danny and I, along with Sofie the other volunteer on our campus, spent the past weekend at Lake Mburo which is quite close to us – about 60 or 70km. There are seven lakes in the park, savannah, and mountains and hills. Lovely.

The park does not get crowds of visitors like other national parks because it doesn’t have the ‘Big 5’, or chimps or gorillas like other parks. It is, however, the only national park in Uganda that has zebra and impala. Between 4-6,000 zebras roam the park.

Accommodation is basic or luxury—nothing in between. Since we took our chances and arrived without reservations we spent Saturday night in basic, tiny, and clean rooms. There were no private toilets or showers but were in buildings close by—however, in the middle of the night it seemed miles away! Sunday night was spent in a banda which was in a good location close to park headquarters and the restaurant.

Warthogs were everywhere. I must say they have a face only a mother could love! They liked to eat the grass near the restaurant and we had to walk past them to visit the ‘long drop’. They paid no attention to us.

Sunday morning we took a boat ride on Lake Mburo to look for hippos and crocodiles. Our boat spotted one baby crocodile on a branch near the water and a large crocodile in the distance. Hippos are easily seen near the lakeside restaurant. We also took a game drive in the evening with a ranger in our own vehicle. This was fantastic as we took back trails (good thing we bought a 4 x 4!) and saw hundreds of animals. Danny stopped the car in front of a water buffalo and baby which displeased the mama. The ranger told him to go forward quickly—it could charge us when it feels threatened.

In the evening after dinner when it was pitch black we took a detour to attempt to spot hippos coming out of the lake. We surprised one crossing the road—a huge, wet, lumbering animal. For a moment we feared it would charge us as it was frightened and looked panicky as it hunted for the familiar trail to the water.

On Monday morning we arose before sunrise for a 6.30 am walk with an armed park ranger. Walks are not allowed in the park without being accompanied by an armed guide—just in case. We were looking for hyenas but didn’t spot any. Zebras, monkeys, impalas and a variety of similar animals were spotted and our group got quite close to many of them. We love how graceful the impalas, etc run and leap.

Great trip…we will return.




Photos are being uploaded to this album: http://flickr.com/photos/anniedanny/sets/72157604433975130/

Links:

http://www.uwa.or.ug/mburo.html

http://www.traveluganda.co.ug/lakemburo.asp

Danny's Garden

Danny is growing: cabbage, garlic, peppers, onions, various herbs, watermelon, courgettes/zucchini, tomatoes, aubergines/eggplant, doodo (like spinach), pineapple, broccoli, cauliflower.

A cameleon sits on one of our bushes.

6 months ago today......

6 months ago today…..

…we left the UK to come to Uganda. Time flies, eh?

‘Stuff’

Early on another volunteer shared with me her opinion that in order to fully experience life in Uganda as a volunteer that one need not be deprived of all modern conveniences. At the time I disagreed. My impression was that to fully appreciate our spoiled western lifestyles that living simply and doing things the hard way was mandatory.

I no longer believe that 100%. We certainly do not have all the conveniences we have at home, but we do not live nearly as simply as most people. In our home we have slowly gathered more and more ‘stuff’. Modern conveniences we have purchased here: 4WD car(!), toaster, electric kettle, 2 burner gas range/cooker, TV (no satellite or cable), electric iron (as opposed to charcoal iron), refrigerator, mobile internet. These are in addition to the electrical and electronic items we brought with us.

I would not say we are living in luxury. The laundry is done by hand, the grass is cut by a slasher, we have to boil and filter our drinking water, we have no hot running water, we still have limited electricity and occasionally the water runs out. But compared to many here we are living a luxurious lifestyle. We have made ourselves comfortable and barring unforeseen disasters we will stay put for another year and a half.

Other Volunteers

We are fortunate in that our housing is acceptable, the location is safe and pleasant, the staff are all fantastic and Danny is happy with his job.

However, there are quite a few volunteers who are not happy. A volunteer mentioned to me the other day that my blog is very positive and it may give the impression that all volunteers are content. This is definitely not the case. Several we know personally are leaving their placements early. Some have primitive accommodation which is below the minimum standard for volunteers. Some are unhappy with their jobs and feel unwanted and under-used by their employers. It saddens us that several people we know are leaving early as we will miss their companionship.

Spending time with other volunteers is mandatory for a successful placement. As much as we enjoy the company of Ugandans it is necessary to spend time with those of similar backgrounds who are in the same situation.

New Volunteers

As I mentioned we now have another VSO volunteer on our campus. She is Dutch and teaches maths. Recently a new VSO volunteer arrived in Mbarara from the UK. He is a doctor and is originally from India. Since he lives in town in university/hospital housing we only see him on Saturdays for shopping and lunch.

A new Peace Corps volunteer arrived last week and will spend most of her time in a village outside of Mbarara, but will occasionally teach on our campus.

Next post.....language lessons, our vegetable garden and some pics.

We bought a car!

We have been feeling dependant and a bit trapped when it comes to transport and with expensive or inconvenient choices. The motorbike is only good for short trips and not good at all for weekly shopping. There are also many places in Uganda we want to visit, and renting a car or hiring a private taxi are quite expensive.

Soooo.....we have bought a car.....a re-conditioned SUV which is fantastic on the huge potholes here. Got a good price - many millions (...in UG shillings). The head of the college did the
bargaining because when a dealer knows it is for a mzungu, the price rises dramatically.

We are here for another 1.5 years so after discussing and calculating for months, Danny and I decided to do it--might as well make the most of it. The common opinion is that we will be able to the sell the car when we leave for nearly what we paid for it.

A couple of pics....

Sean the sheep was enjoying a sunny day on the lake, blissfully unaware that he was headed to the market and someone's dinner table later this evening.

(Actually the sheep is an old pal - he graced the dashboard of my wee car in Scotland for about 6 years. The boat is one that I purchased here in Uganda.)

New furniture: yea, I know the design and colour aren't very appealing, but comfort comes first here! Still awaiting the bookcase which is being custom-built for us. It will go where the TV is now.

More about mozzies (skeeters)

Thanks for the tips on my previous post, however, I need to expand on the situation with mozzies here:

Mosquitoes are active between dusk and dawn, although they can be spotted during the day. They don’t bother Danny but are a nuisance to me between 7pm and bedtime.

I generally stay covered in trousers, long sleeves and socks during the evenings, but they usually find a way to bite me—up my sleeves, through my socks, up my trouser legs. I am a mozzie magnet and always have been.

Sometimes I apply Deet – the only effective protection against them. But I really don’t want to use it daily. I am guilty of scratching until I bleed and have many battle scars on my legs, feet and arms. Benadryl antihistamine cream sometimes stops the itching if I apply it as soon as I’m bitten, but it is much less effective against Ugandan mozzies than it is against Scottish midges. Wary of infections from my scratches I keep lots of Dettol or Savlon on hand to wash my injuries.

There are nooks and crannies in the house where they hide during the day and become active at night. They also get into the house through ill-fitting doors and windows.

One reason the mozzies are so bad on our campus is due to its location. It’s out in the countryside where the population is sparse. Most of the people who live in the villages don’t have electricity. So in the midst of darkness, our campus burns like a beacon for mozzies for miles around.

We faithfully take Mefloquine, an anti-malarial drug. We also sleep under a Permethrin-coated mozzie net at night. However, if we do happen to get bitten by an anopheles mosquito which is carrying malaria, we will likely feel like we’ve got the flu for about a week--if we get malaraia at all. It is rare for people taking Mefloquine to get malaria..

When we are going to gone from the house for a few hours we spray with DOOM, an insecticide. The amount of mosquitoes seems to be less for a day or two, but that is all.

Only solution: mosquito electrocutors!

Getting comfortable and other things....

After nearly 5 months we now feel quite comfortable and at home in our house here. Last week we purchased a living room suite – 2 big chairs and a sofa and they are very comfortable. These replace the two horrible chairs which were never really comfortable. A sturdy coffee table was purchased with the suite. We are also having a bookcase built for us. So my long list of items to buy has nearly become cleared.

The vegetables and fruits Danny planted are doing extremely well – they seem to grow before your eyes.

We have resumed language lessons and I love the reaction I get from people when I demonstrate that I know more than a few greetings.

The end of next week we are getting another VSO on our campus! At the present time we are the only ones on campus.

The students have just returned this week after the long holiday. Danny is teaching physics and the students love his teaching style. He lightens up the subject by making jokes and you can hear them roaring with laughter all over campus.

Occasionally it hits me how pleasant the weather is here and how I have taken it for granted. Yesterday afternoon I was sitting in one of our new comfortable chairs in a skirt and tank top with my bare feet propped up on the coffee table. As usual all the windows and the front and kitchen doors were open, it was sunny and there was a very nice breeze blowing. Ahhhhh…….

Now if we’d just get the electricity back during the day!!!